78 Runs good for about 2 mins - Towed :(

[architect]

Happy Friday!

Last night was eventful! First my battery was dead, not too sure why, just fired it up a week prior. I jumped it, and let it idle for about 2 mins on its own.

I then decided to drive 1/4 mile to the nearest gas station. I filled up about half tank, and the car fires up just fine. I then drove it around a connected parking lot for about 30 seconds, then stalled.

So I ran home, got my truck and jumped it again and it started right up. Let it idle for about 2 mins, then turned the head lights on... the car then stalled, and the battery was dead. I then decided to grab a battery since i was overdue, and the shop was down the road.

After installed the battery (30 mins since last start) it fired back up, let idle for a few mins, then drove a few laps around the parking lot... then stalled. I waited another 20 mins, and same thing happened.

Got a tow about half hour later, then drove the car up and down my street for 2-3 mins, then stall. I haven't tried he headlights since the new battery.

Any ideas what's going on? The only thing I have changed since the last road trip was: removed a second muffler the previous owner had, HID head light conversion, new radio install, removed gas tank and put back in (to remove rear bumper).

I'm about to check the fuel filter / intake filter tonight.. I know those are pretty old. Its odd, like something is warming up around minute 2 of idling, and cause the car to stall. It doesn't really putter, just straight up turns off regardless of feeding it more gas.

After reading around... I'm thinking it's one of the following:

Fuel pump?
Fuel filter? Need to check asap
Coil wiring?
Gas cap too tight? I read this is an indicator of vacuum problem - prob should test drive with the cap loose??
exhaust? Not sure why
Oil low? Need to check asap


Any advice would be amazing! This is my 5th month of ownership, and would love to get back on the streets. Thank you!!!

[architect]

Some pics for fun! I have been focused on the interior only... body, suspension and wheels after the holidays

Sorry about blurred face - it was a request

[kilrwail]

Test the alternator once you have it running again - it should be charging the battery with 13 or so volts. Either it's not or the voltage regulator is causing the battery to drain quickly.

[architect]

Test the alternator once you have it running again - it should be charging the battery with 13 or so volts. Either it's not or the voltage regulator is causing the battery to drain quickly.

Ah that would make sense... I would assume if the alternate has failed, the car was running for the first 2 mins or so on the battery? Seems kinda odd if just all of sudden would fail.

Has anyone confirmed the following test?
The headlight test is the easiest test to employ, so use it first. Perform it in an outdoor area to avoid carbon monoxide build-up. Start the car and turn on its headlights. Have someone watch the headlights as you press on the accelerator. If the lights dim, it points to the alternator as the cause of the vehicle's issues. On the other hand, if they stay bright for the duration of the test, your alternator is probably functioning well.

Next, perform a battery test. Open the hood of your car, and start it. Once the engine is running, disconnect the negative (black) cable on your vehicle. It helps to loosen the cable's bolt first to make it easier to remove. If the engine stalls or stops when you remove the negative cable, it is a sign that your alternator is not generating sufficient electricity to keep your car's engine running.


Regardless....I plan on picking up a voltmeter tomorrow!

[kilrwail]

Be sure to buy a decent quality digital multi-meter. Some day you'll need to measure resistance and current, as well as voltage. It will be useful around the house too, with the AC settings. About $30-40.

[lglade]

Be sure that your charging/alternator light on the dash comes on when your ignition key is first turned to the 'run' position.

The light bulb is in the circuit that allows the alternator to charge the battery. The light is supposed to go out once the car is running, but if it doesn't light up initially, then you likely need to replace the bulb. I had a similar issue and it turned out that replacing the bulb was all I needed to do to solve my charging (and stalling) problem.

[architect]

Be sure that your charging/alternator light on the dash comes on when your ignition key is first turned to the 'run' position.

The light bulb is in the circuit that allows the alternator to charge the battery. The light is supposed to go out once the car is running, but if it doesn't light up initially, then you likely need to replace the bulb. I had a similar issue and it turned out that replacing the bulb was all I needed to do to solve my charging (and stalling) problem.

I didn't get to work on the car his weekend... BUT! I did replace all my instrument panel lights with LED...

Do you think that maybe throwing this all off.. now that I'm thinking about it, I haven't driven it since the replacement.


Hmmmmmmm!!!

[seabeelt]

My son's 72 is having a similar issue
Car will start when everything is cold runs for about 2-3 minutes then shuts down and won't restart
Alt is putting out 13.5 v , battery reads 12.6 at rest.
Noticed significant voltage drop at coil after it stalled. 10.2 v. Initially replaced the coil because the primary read zero ohms but got the same symptoms with the new coil
Only thing I can think of is a big voltage drop across the ignition switch.
Ran out of daylight before I could verify that was the case I did note that other points in the fuse box were also at 10.2v

Any thoughts from the group?

Sorry not meaning to hijack the thread but thought it might be relevant

[architect]

No worries! I'm fortunate to hear someone is in the same boat. With the weather we're having in Texas right now, every day is a lost opportunity for driving.

I'm on the road this week, but plan on troubleshooting over the weekend. I will post my findings here, thanks!

[architect]

Just to follow up, if anyone has this problem.

It was the fuel vent line. So long story short, the car was working 100% until I fill it up with gas for the first time.

After I filled up that night, that's when the problems happened. I traced back my thoughts to the GAS CAP! The previous owner had it on loose, so after I filled up the tank, I naturally tighten it down all the way.

The 3 way valve was heavily corroded / clogged full of crap. This didn't allow the gas tank to vent (hence the loose cap) and would cause the engine to stall. - Taking the cap off fixed it.

This is an old post, but I figured I would let everyone know..

Since then, the entire fuel system, from gas cap to carburetor has been replaced.

[RRoller123]

Excellent, thanks for following up.