DOA

[Sscottdvm]

No, I'm not much of a mechanic. I could probably just order new points and install them. So far I've got a new coil and a fuel pump coming. Will try to install although can't yet figure out how to get to one of the bolts off of the fuel pump.

[courtenay]

I'm not much of a mechanic either - but have found that one of the most satisfying parts of owning these cars is that they're really not that hard for we less mechanically inclined to work on....and we've always got the "Board of Experts" on this Forum to rely on for all kinds of advice and guidance!

[nelsonj]

A new fuel pump is a good move. It's just two bolts plus the fuel lines. I think I used golf tees or a pencil as a temporary line plug when disconnecting the fuel lines. Keep the spacer between the pump and block and reuse it. Hopefully this solves the problem, and even if it doesn't a new fuel pump is a good thing for reliability and peace of mind. I had to be towed home once because my (very old) pump died.

If you have a white wire coming from your distributor to the coil/control module you have a electronic ignition and don't have to worry about points. This was not stock, but it is a very common and good upgrade.
In fact, if you still have an issues, rather than gettIng new points look at upgrading to an electronic ignition.

Good luck and hang in there. Besides vapor lock, it doesn't seem like many have had this same issue, but everyone has/will have to replace a fuel pump in time.

[Sscottdvm]

Should have the parts by next weekend, hope it will help the problem

[profcucchi]

I've found that you have to breathe in, breathe out, and repeat as necessary with these cars.

From my experience, check the connections at the ignition switch and clean every ground.

Now I'm off to fix my turn signal auto-off.

[nelsonj]

Should have the parts by next weekend, hope it will help the problem

Talked with a friend that races Forma F. His first reaction was "vapor lock", but agreed fuel pump could be the issue, and even if its vapor lock, a stronger pump might solve it.
He wasn't familiar enough with a dual points set up to comment.

Please update once the new pump is installed.

[nelsonj]

Should have the parts by next weekend, hope it will help the problem

Talked with a friend that races Formula F. His first reaction was "vapor lock", but agreed fuel pump could be the issue, and even if it's vapor lock, a stronger pump might solve it.
He wasn't familiar enough with a dual points set up to comment.

Please update once the new pump is installed.

[Sscottdvm]

Have a new ignition coil and mechanical pump. Will probably install the coil first, see if it solves the problem (unlikely), if not install the pump and hope for the best.
Since I've not been able to spend much time driving the car I've been working on the cosmetics. Have the door panels sorted, installing new chrome side mirrors vs the black plastic ones that it arrived with. The body and paint buffed out pretty well, unfortunately the bumper chrome dull and the bottom bar a bit of rust.

[Sscottdvm]

Well I installed the new ignition coil and surprisingly it started up. At least I didn't screw it up. I'll see tomorrow if it solves or helps the warm starting problem.
However ran across something that looks like an alternator, with a pulley that has no belt. It has tubing that leads to a manifold on the top of the engine. It obviously disconnected and therefore does nothing. Assuming it was some kind of emission device. CAn I just remove all the hoses and clean up the engine bay? Also there's a protrusion from the body wall with nothing going in or out. Was wondering what it's purpose was? I hope it's not some inlet to the heater. I took pictures but don't know how to upload them

[Texafornian]

That sounds like your smog (air) pump. I don't think there is harm in leaving it disconnected, but I think the proper removal involves following the tubing and plugging any of the ports (several in the head I believe).

[Sscottdvm]

Yeah, I figured it out. Maybe I'll just disconnect everything up to the ports that go into the head. Takes up a lot of space in the engine bay to be doing nothing.
New problem, wasn't getting the turn signal indicator lighting up in the dash so repalced the flasher. Now every thing lights up nicely EXCEPT while applying the brakes and the left turn signal. Now the fturn signal stops working when the brakes are applied. A bit of a problem coming to s stop and making a left turn u less I let off the brake. Checked the wires at the lights and everything seems grounded properly and no wires seem to be touching each other. I guess I'll just have to make rolling left turns.

[nelsonj]

Any update on this? Did you get the new fuel pump in and did that address the issue?

(Also, just my opinion, but I wouldn't go about taking off smog until I had the "no start" issue resolved. My view is solve one issue before potentially creating new issues...)

[Sscottdvm]

I installed the new ignition coil first. So far it's started up every time. However, I haven't had it out on a real warm day, which is when the problem seems to occur. I'm beginning to have a bit more faith in it. In the mean time I've sorted out most of the electrical issues and cosmetically it's looking pretty good.

If it fails to start I will then try to put in the fuel pump. Took it for a 70 mile ride today and it performed well. I'm hoping the coil was the problem.

Now trying to figure out what to do with those bumpers.

[Sscottdvm]

Well, I was hoping the new ignition coil would solve the problem. This weekend it wouldn't start twice. The first time I was able to start it by letting the engine turn over and after thirty seconds gave it about a third throttle and got it home. Today. That didn't work. It would run for about thirty seconds after pouring gas in the carb but still did. While waiting for AAA,, I got it started but it would die below 2000 rpm. So limped home going through a few stop signs and keeping the revs up. This car idled beautifully up until today. I still haven't installed the new mechanical fuel pump but not sure it will help the new non idle situation. I'm sure 4-5 hours from now it will work fine again.

[seabeelt]

I would start with a basic tune up. If you don't have one, get the Haynes manual off of eBay or from one of the venders. Start with checking plug gaps.. Next check points and associated gaps, Definitely if you don't have one, et a timing light. I highly recommend the


INNOVA 5568 Pro-Timing Light with Tool Case - I got mine from Amazon

I have no affiliation, but have one and it covers, timing, advance, dwell, rpm and volts - perfect for these little cars. You can email me direct at init4fun@earthlink.net and I can send you the wiring diagrams for the 78 if you don't already have them They are also a must for having one of these cars. (you might even be able to borrow this from Autozone)

So Once you have the timing light, wiring diagram and haynes manual for the timing procedure with respect to dual points, continue with the tune up. Check the wires in the distrib under the cap. Clean the connections and check for fraying and or breakage. Any of these can cause the car not to run.

Once you have confirmed all good settings electrically, you can concentrate on the fuel delivery and carb settings. Mind RPM does have an impact on timing advance and you may not be able to do that step until the carb and fuel is sorted. You can borrow form one of the parts supply stores (Autozone and the like) a fuel pressure /vacuum gauge setup to test fuel pressure at the pump prior to replacing. I hate to see folks spending money just replacing parts without getting down to the root of the problem Brad Artique has a good carb setup and tuning section on his web site - artique.com
you can also get wiring diagrams there free of charge.

Ignition switch could be a problem, but you don't need a second set of hands/eyes to troubleshoot that. If you have a meter or test light, check for the coil voltage when it doesn't start, then check for voltage at the points connection wires in the distrib. one will have voltage the other will not depending on which set of points the relay has in the circuit.

Let me know how you make out. I had a 78 for years