Heater valve corroded and stuck

[Nicketts]

Hi guys. Successfully installed rebuilt clock and new lower console (plastic, but...) During process tried to free up center heater cable which goes to the valve. Valve itself won't really budge by the cable or by a pair of pliers. It is corroded on one side, badly. Needless to say, center cable and control won't really budge either--when connected to valve. I basically always have some heat on in the car. I see Ricambi has a kit with valve, new shorter hose, and gaskets (currently out of stock.) Am I looking for trouble trying to replace this thing? Will it leak radiator fluid all over my new carpet? Should I leave well enough alone? Have read stories here about the valve failing and spraying passenger compartment with hot fluid. I don't care about heat in my summer-only car, but it would be nice to shut it down a bit more. As always, any advice appreciated.

[TX82FIAT]

You most likely need to fix it. Some passenger will kick it with their foot or some vibration or other thing will eventually give way and leak on your carpet. You have options. The easy option and temp solution that can be permanent is to bypass the heater core. This can be done cheaply with a brass hose coupling/fitting from your local hardware store by connecting the two tubes in your engine bay that currently go into your firewall. Sounds like you have limited heating control currently anyway. The second option is a little more costly. If the cables and valve are that corroded chances are the heater core itself in the center console is ready to fail or partially blocked as well. I'd hat to see you replace the valve only to have a leak develop at the core or within the console in the core robbing precious coolant from a system that will need it. You will be able to tell as soon as you get into the job. So, a new system from the firewall in to the heater core is the long term play if you want it all to work. Finally, you could go by the "if it aint broke don't fix it mantra".

My wife was not real happy in 2012 when the coolant dripped onto he foot and sandals during a fun run.

[baltobernie]

Am I looking for trouble trying to replace this thing?

It is a PITA to replace, but only because one must be a contortionist to do it. 1/4" drive sockets and removing the passenger seat makes the job a little easier.

Summer is rather short in Rochester. Why not extend the driving season? The Spider's heater output is fantastic. With the windows up and a wind deflector behind the seats, temps in the forties are no problem.

I miss your lovely little airport with the rocking chairs.

[lglade]

I wouldn't ignore it, as the valve will eventually spring a leak and send coolant pouring into the passenger compartment footwells. However, you can easily by-pass the valve and heater core if you don't want to repair it right away. That way you can tackle the job if and when you feel like it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zSLH1mGnhI

[Nicketts]

Thanks all for the info. Think I will bypass for now. Is there info on this site about how, exactly? Budding mechanic here. Also, when I do tackle replacing the whole system from firewall back, does one have to remove the consoles? Because I just replaced the lower and that was enough of a pain. Seems to me the only way to get to the core. Baltimore the rockers are still there. Little airports have pros and cons...fewer direct flights! Thanks again--this website is the best.

[JohnMc]

Bypassing it either temporarily or permanently is simple. You have to buy a longer piece of heater hose. You take off the current heater hose from the heater pipe that comes off the water pump and ends by the firewall by the exhaust header and put the other end into the head - where the other heater hose terminates. This just gives a loop from the water pump to the head.
I did that until I replaced the heater valve - mine also would not move.But I do love the heat it puts out.

[Nicketts]

Hey guys, I remembered I have receipts for all work done since PO bought in 1986. He had a valve put in around 1990 or so, but the core seems to be original. From my reading here it appears that even with the bypass solution (and how does that extra hose fit under the hood?) one still has to bleed the system. Again, I'm new to this but worried about that. My archive of receipts is great for knowing when timing belt was replaced, radiator, and battery(s). I also have orig. window sticker...