DOA

[Sscottdvm]

I agree must be something that occasionally stops the engine from getting spark. I did fiddle with the distributor and coil connections. So far today it hasn't failed to start

[PhillySpider]

I'm telling ya, clean the contacts at the ground pods...

[PhillySpider]

I'm telling ya, clean the contacts at the ground pods...

[Sscottdvm]

Purchased some dielectric grease and will be checking what grounds I can find and clean and grease them. Need to grease the accelerator and clutch. The clutch has a TWANG every time I release it, quite annoying and the throttle isn't particularly smooth making the acceleration a bit jumpy.

[RRoller123]

That twang might be from a spring at the pedal not being seated properly. It is a contortionist's dream to get down there and check it out, but worth the effort!

[Sscottdvm]

Spent a couple of hours checking and cleaning things and of course after my efforts, won't start again. Tried to see if get power to the coil but since my weekend company has left I've got no one to turn the engine over while I check the coil or spark plugs. Oh well, I'll let it rest a few hours. Will probably start right up

[RRoller123]

Carb or Fuel Injected?

[Sscottdvm]

Carb. Thought maybe I flooded it. I was trying to lubricate the throttle linkage all the way to the pedal. The pedal is very notchy. Pushed it a punch to try to spread the spray lube that I used.

[Sscottdvm]

Just tested the HT lead where it attaches to the distributor. Getting 12 volts with the ignition turned on. Does that mean that if the problem is electrical it involves something in the distributor?

[RRoller123]

Carb. Thought maybe I flooded it. I was trying to lubricate the throttle linkage all the way to the pedal. The pedal is very notchy. Pushed it a punch to try to spread the spray lube that I used.

I am no carb expert, that is for sure, but I suggest that you have someone activate the pedal and make sure that the throttle plate is opening smoothly and fully as the pedal progresses through its motion. It would be good to determine if the notchiness is in the cable or the carb itself, so if you could disconnect it at the carb and lube it backwards from there you could determine which side the problem is on and get the lubing fully done at the same time. You should also see a spray of atomized fuel go down the throat as the pedal is quickly stepped on.

[Sscottdvm]

Just started it. Needed to hold the accelerator to the floor. Let up and it started. Once it starts it runs fine.
Tomorrow I'll have someone pump the accelerator while observing the carbs. Does idle at about 1500 rpm. I tried opening the idle adjustment screw a couple of turns. Didn't change the idle.

[zachmac]

Just started it. Needed to hold the accelerator to the floor. Let up and it started. Once it starts it runs fine.
Tomorrow I'll have someone pump the accelerator while observing the carbs. Does idle at about 1500 rpm. I tried opening the idle adjustment screw a couple of turns. Didn't change the idle.

What you just described is a pretty standard starting procedure for a car with a carb. What happens is the choke sticks open after warming up and running. While the car is still hot it will start right back up. If you park it and it cools off and you go back to start it you can crank forever and no start. Pushing the gas pedal to WOT releases the choke back to the cold start position and then it starts. Very common. Check you choke position when cold and make sure it is operating properly.

[AriK]

My 2 cents. I know you don't want to throw parts at your car but:
You just bought a +/- 40 yr old car over the internet.
You know little about its history and if you do, you should't trust anything the PO says, especially an internet seller. The fact that the car ran right before is likely BS.
Since the car is new to you, you most likely want to turn it into a reliable little Sunday car.
In order for you to feel the love, you must give it love.

Start from a clean slate, order all the tune up parts and start changing away. Document your work in writing (mileage and date) that way you will create your own history file for the car and you can refer to it in the future.
Pay special attention to the ignition module in the coil housing and the pick up sensor inside the distributor. They are both notorious for intermittent problems when engine is hot. I'm surprised nobody else mentioned them. Another intermittent area is the ignition switch, giggle the wires begind the switch next time you're cranking over during a no-start.
Let's not go in circles. Rroller gave a good rundown procedure early in this post.

[nelsonj]

Per above, what type of carb and distributor does it have? I think 78s had a water choke and points if the car is stock.

On many carbs, you have to hold the gas down (for a few seconds) when starting to activate the choke. And pumping is needed. Does it have a stock mechanical fuel pump or was it upgraded to an electric fuel pump?

If you have points, there won't be an ignition module and the points, especially if you have dual points, can be tricky. Most people replace the points with an electronic ignition, and per above the sending wire fails and the ignition module fails over time, but overal the electronic is very reliable. Pictures would help (of the carb, dizzy and coil).

[Sscottdvm]

I ordered a new coil to put in. Figured it's all rusted and wouldn't hurt to replace it. It's supposed to have the water choke. I think it has a mechanical fuel pump because I don't hear the noise my MG made when I turn the ignition. I also am beginning to think it's a choke issue. The problem may be not knowing that if I depress the accelerator and the engine doesn't need it, it will flood it. I will try giggling the ignition wires next time it dies. If it were a purely electric or spark issue I would think it would occasionally die while driving. Now, I just leave the car idling whenever I stop and only turn off when I arrive home. Not a real solution long term