Brake line question / eliminating splitter?

[GDR76SPIDER]

Hey guys, after a few yrs I'm back tackling the fiat again to get it closer to road ready. I ordered the copper brake lines from Vick's and have most of them on. Right now I'm stuck with the longest one which goes to the rear compensator (I am bypassing it) and then to the splitter under the master cylinder. I'm having trouble getting it to screw into where the old line was. Mind you the old line seems like it's been previously repaired. I'm wondering if the line is supposed to screw directly into the splitter directly [/img] the previous line was pretty much like this. [/img] with 2-3 inches of line coming out of the splitter and then screwed into the line that went to the rear compensator.
Do I need to have the new line screw into another small line which then screws into the splitter? Or does it screw right in? It doesn't seem to wanna screw it smoothly. I seem to get it in and seems sorta tight. I don't wanna force it and risk stripping the thread.

In researching and when I ordered the lines it said I would have to eliminate the splitter.. Can anyone point me in the direction of going about this? Do the lines just screw directly into the master cylinder?

Thanks in advance guys.

[bluespider262]

That short line looks like part of a previous repair. I'd leave it out.

[GDR76SPIDER]

Edit*

[nelsonj]

I'm stuck with the longest one which goes to the rear compensator (I am bypassing it)

I'm interested if others here see any problem with bypassing the compensator. My understanding is it prevents/reduces the rear breaks from locking up under hard braking as the car "nose dives" and there is very little weight on the back.

Any one done the "bypass" and if yes, did it create problems?

[GDR76SPIDER]

I'm stuck with the longest one which goes to the rear compensator (I am bypassing it)

I'm interested if others here see any problem with bypassing the compensator. My understanding is it prevents/reduces the rear breaks from locking up under hard braking as the car "nose dives" and there is very little weight on the back.

Any one done the "bypass" and if yes, did it create problems?

There's been a ton on this topic, try giving it a search. lots of opinions from both sides. I just figured i do it, plus i figure if Mark is saying he's never experienced any problems etc, then I'm pretty sure its not a problem.

[Funcar]

On my car that brake line screws into the splitter. I would make sure you start by screwing it in to make sure it is not crooked then tighten it up. I left my compensator on. I bought a new one from AR and it is an easy instal.

[GDR76SPIDER]

Sry I keep posting on the same topic, just wanna be sure.
To "eliminate" the splitter, would I just need to connect long line that goes to rear compensator to the MS as shown. And line to front driver side to the MS as shown. Any help would be great guys.

[GDR76SPIDER]

Hey, so i found a post the answered my question.

The brake effectiveness sensor on my '76 was leaking, so I followed the advice of several people on the forum and replaced it with a late model reservoir and level sensing cap. I purchased a used single reservoir and cap from one of the forum members. I connected the wire that went to the BES to the cap and connected the other connection on the cap to ground. To make a cleaner installation, I replaced the drivers side front brake hardline (routing the line directly from the MC to the front left wheel). The rear brake line that went to the BES can reach the MC directly--it's tight, but if you route th line correctly you can get it to reach the MC. This seems to be a more reliable setup than the old system.

from the (77 brake fluid / effectiveness light) Thread

[Odoyle]

DO NOT bypass the rear compensator valve, it plays an important role in making sure the rear brakes don't lock up under heavy breaking, the engineers put it there for a good reason.

[GDR76SPIDER]

DO NOT bypass the rear compensator valve, it plays an important role in making sure the rear brakes don't lock up under heavy breaking, the engineers put it there for a good reason.

I've read way too much about this in this forum, it seems it's a topic of heavy debate...my theory is Mark seems pretty confident in his argument that it's not a problem. Seeing that i'll eventually be lowering the car, which will not let the rear compensator work properly like it's supposed to, i did the bypass. I didn't want this thread to be another compensator bypass thread but i guess seeing as it is such debated topic, its hard to avoid.