steering knuckle

[jlw35]

I just installed new upper and lower control arms on the pax side of my '75. Spring is installed and seated properly, shock not installed yet.
Car is still on jack stands, no wheel or brakes or any other things attached yet, so I still have free access.

The steering knuckle is very difficult to move in either direction with the car described as above.
Is this normal?

Thanks
Jeff

http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jlw35 ... 6.jpg.html

[klweimer]

Is the knuckle hooked up to the steering tie rod? If so, the steering damper could actually be working. If not connected to the steering, the knuckle should turn with only limited resistance.
Kirk

[jlw35]

No it isn't hooked up to anything at all other than the upper and lower control arms.
It's almost as if there is too much force being applied by the coil spring, but if it is seated properly, that should not be a factor I would assume.

[So Cal Mark]

the spring won't have any effect on steering effort

[klweimer]

You could put a jack under the knuckle and compress the spring upward a bit, so the A arms are closer to normal ride geometry and see if that helps. I can't recall if it's possible to somehow install the arms wrong (flipping top for bottom). You could also take a few measurements between the pass and driver side suspension to see if something looks wonky. Are you going to replace the driver side as well?
Kirk

[jlw35]

I am going to replace the driver side as well (already removed all driver side components and welded in a new shock tower). The entire front of the car is on jack stands.
I don't see how the control arms could be confused from top or bottom, the bottom has the arm that fits onto the studs that extend from the crossmember.

I'm going to remove the control arm today and start from scratch.

I did post some pics in a previous post on this thread (link to photobucket) if anyone could take a look or suggest a different angle for more pics I would appreciate it.

My goal was to get the car back on wheels this week, but this has put a wrinkle in that plan.

Thanks
Jeff

[bobplyler]

I had the same thing happen to me recently. I bought the control arms several years ago, and when I put them on, noticed that the passenger side was much harder to move than the drivers side. I popped the top joint, and it was very stiff. I was barely able to spin it around with a wrench on the nut. I've replaced the upper ball joint on that side, and it seems to be much better. That one will at least spin around without too much effort. The last one will spin around by hand.

Also, be sure you put the upper control arms on the correct side. The curved part of the upper arm is toward the front of the car.

[jlw35]

Thanks Bob
Just got off the phone with vendor (very helpful) to confirm that the upper is on the proper side (which it is/was).
The ball joints are pre-greased and new (already set up as the kit comes this way).

So back to square one, I've just removed the entire assembly and will reinstall now, making sure that the coil is properly seated (which I'm pretty sure that it was).

Jeff

[jlw35]

Well, obviously, it was operator error.

I removed everything, reinstalled plus a shock absorber and that made the difference. The knuckle turns freely.
So, I can't say if it was the addition of the shock or if I just didn't have the spring properly seated the first time. Either way, now it's on to the driver side.

Thanks for the input.

Jeff

[jlw35]

Driver side control arms, coil spring and shock absorber on now. Funny, worked well the first time. That side took about an hour and a half.
I'm convinced that it was the addition of the shock absorber that made the difference.

Does anyone know if the middle section of the exhaust system (that which connects to the aft most muffler and extends to the downpipe off of the exhaust manifold) routes over the parking brake cable? Been too long since I removed it to remember, but the cable almost looks as if it has a sag in it where the exhaust routed over it.

Thanks
Jeff

[klweimer]

I have my e-brake cable mounted under my exhaust. It rubs. Really hard to get the exhaust high enough to avoid some contact. I wrapped mine with some high temp cloth insulation.
Kirk

[jlw35]

klweimer,

Thanks for the responses. I believe my exhaust goes up and over the cable as well.
I'll try that tomorrow and good call on the wrap.

Jeff

[MrToon]

Installed my suspension without shocks last week while the car was on stands and ran into the same problem! I think the difficulty in turning the knuckle comes from the fact that the assembly hangs down too much. When I put my wheels on and dropped the car on the ground, the problem disappeared.

[jlw35]

I agree mrtoon.
The knuckle was tight until I installed the shock. I believe that the shock gave enough lift to the lower arm which was the source of the problem.

Jeff