Front sway (anti-roll) bar tips, tricks?

[KevAndAndi]

I'll be working on the suspension this winter - in the front, I will be replacing the lower control arms and the sway bar bushings. I've seen people here refer to the sway bar as a real PITA that is difficult to reattach. What are the issues that make it so difficult? Are there tips or tricks that anyone would care to share so that I could minimize the utterance of expletives?

[lglade]

I had my car supported on jack stands, and using a floor jack under the control arm (with a piece of wood for protection) and a large pry bar, I found it pretty easy to manipulate the ends of the bar where I wanted them to go.

One tip is to be sure to identify the bar end clamps for up/down and left/right since the parts are not the same, nor are they symmetrical up and down.

[KevAndAndi]

I had my car supported on jack stands, and using a floor jack under the control arm (with a piece of wood for protection) and a large pry bar, I found it pretty easy to manipulate the ends of the bar where I wanted them to go.

One tip is to be sure to identify the bar end clamps for up/down and left/right since the parts are not the same, nor are they symmetrical up and down.

Thanks. Are the ends of the bar under tension - is that why a pry bar is required?

[lglade]

Yes they are...and the bar ends sit between a couple of studs on the control arm. So you have to 'coax' the sway bar over the top of the lower studs to get the ends into place. You can then use the floor jack to lift/lower the contol arm into position, being careful not to lift the car off of the jack stands.

[lglade]

.

[Nanonevol]

The studs that hold the two middle clamps to the frame are not that large so take care as usual (soak in PB Blast, for example) removing their nuts. I snapped one off and the resulting repair becomes complicated.

[njoconnor]

Kevin, this was (for me) the toughest part of the suspension rebuild, only because it seemed to take more time thanmore complex systems. After a lot of effort, and some great advice from Mike (seabeelt), I managed to get the bar back on.

Lloyd describes it well. I'd add a few items based on my mistakes..

1) Before removal, make sure you mark the top and bottom sides of the sway bar. There's a very slight curve to the ends, both outwards and (IIRC) down.
2) Mark the current positions of all 4 bushings (suggest a small grinder wheel to "nick" an index mark in the surface on either side of the bushing).
3) Remove, repaint if desired, replace bushings. Dish soap is a great lubricant!
4) Loosely attach the center clamps over the center bushing, maybe 2 turns of the nut onto the studs.
5) Per Lloyd, use a wood cushioned floor jack to slowly raise/lower the bar end until it lines up with the studs on the lower C arm. You may find that a C or bar clamp helps you draw the sway bar onto the studs enough that you can start those nuts. Or...you may get lucky and the bar slips on once it's at the correct height.
6) Using a 3/8 drive rachet, slooooowly tighten the end nuts and the center clamp nuts. Check a manual (Haynes, Chilton, factory) for the torque setting. I recall it was lower than I expected (maybe 14 ftlbs? it was low....) DON'T use a 1/2 inch drive rachet. You'l break a stud and complicate the repair no end (don't ask).

I found the occasional crude oath helped the bar comply with my plans for it . Installation fluid was definitely an after action component.

Good luck....it's well worth it.....

Neil

[KevAndAndi]

Thanks, all, for these tips! Will definitely mark the bar before I remove it and hit it with POR-15.

[seabeelt]

Easiest way to reinstall them is with the wheels back on the ground. We did my sons car at the end of the summer. Tried it while on the jack stands. PITA. Much much easier with the suspension loaded. things line up pretty easily

[TStark]

I concur entirely with seabeelt

[KevAndAndi]

Easiest way to reinstall them is with the wheels back on the ground. We did my sons car at the end of the summer. Tried it while on the jack stands. PITA. Much much easier with the suspension loaded. things line up pretty easily

Should I assume that it is also easiest to remove it with the wheels on the ground, or does that not make as much of a difference?

[seabeelt]

Easier to remove on the ground as well

[JohnMc]

It took my son and I about 8 hours to do the project - that was 2 to 3 hours a day because we gave up and had to regroup. Advice above was correct. Mark and take pictures of everything that you remove. Very easy to get turned around. This was the most frustrating job I have encountered because it just seemed so easy. Perhaps also things might have slightly moved as I replaced all the suspension.