Overheating Solution

[Fiatlanta]

I don't understand your question

Lol my bad.

I meant to say, if one is flushing their own radiator at home, is simply running water through it enough? Or should you use a vinegar mixture or like Tony's Miracle Radiator Cleaner or something?

[So Cal Mark]

flushing with water will merely remove the liquid that's in the cooling system and some loose debris

[81SPIDERMATT]

Is there any kind of cleaning solution or something that would make home cleaning more effective?

well thanks to the epa most today will not have the chemical punch that they used too .... oxylic acid cleaner followed by an antacid step was quite good ... but not sure you will find one ..... I have heard that running the flush in the system for 10 hours of driving instead of the "put it in and bring it to temp then flush" method that may be on the directions of a store bought flush, has greater effect but no personal experience with that ..... now non foaming soap like dishwasher soap is quite good also .... dissolve some in hot water and run for a few temp cycles (I just did 2 days ..maybe 4 hours of driving then flush with hose in every hole you can find ... sparkly clean and will knock loose a lot of crud ..... most systems if well maintained wont benefit much from a flush .... it is the neglected ones that a flush will/may help ..... also your local mom and pop radiator shop will do a flush also ... most do a great job and for about 75 bucks .... Matt

[Exit98]

Is there any kind of cleaning solution or something that would make home cleaning more effective?

The coolling system on our Spiders, when operating properly, works perfectly. A stock Spider doesn't need a bigger rad, or faster fans or magic coolant. Last summer the Canadian guys and the NJ guys drove out to Pittsburgh in 90 to 100 F temps. Crusing at 75 MPH and idleing in downtown traffic no one overheated. Don't try that in a stock Jag or MGB for example.

Just take your time and get it up to snuff. Flush the rad. If its leaking or filled with junk you can get a new one from the vendors for $135 or so. By the time a rad shop cleans and repairs your old one you'll spend just as much. Make sure the fan works right. Finally get a fill "T" from NAPA or whoever and install it on the highest heater hose back of the motor or the choke hose if you have a water choke.

The most common sourch of overheating is air in the system. There are hundreds of posts about how to bleed the system. It isn't hard.

[4uall]

THANK YOU DOUG I HAVE BEEN SAYING THIS ALL ALONG AND COULDN'T AGREE MORE

[Fiatlanta]

I really appreciate the education.

I'm not planning on doing anything crazy to the cooling system. I ordered the T for bleeding the system, as well. Ill have to look through the records from the PO, but I don't think the radiator itself is too old. The hoses are getting replaced, as several of them are in poor shape.

Other than that, I ordered a lower temp thermal switch, fwiw.

When I change all the stuff out, I want to go ahead and flush it...was just wondering if it's worth flushing with anything other than just plain water out of the hose.

Again, I appreciate the information. Thanks.

[brackie1]

I have a '77 where wold the internal stat be if there were one?

[aj81spider]

On the top front portion of the head there is a spout that is connected to the radiator hoses. It is held onto the head with four bolts. In older engines (like mine) the thermostat is under that spout. If you take it off and there is an open hole into the head you do not have an internal thermostat. Be careful taking it off and putting it back that you don't strip the bolts (look up the torque - I don't remember it off the top of my head).

[4uall]

I have a '77 where wold the internal stat be if there were one?

pssssst scroll back to the 1st picture of this post

[So Cal Mark]

oem manufacturers build cooling systems that are adequate, not designed for extreme use. Upgrading the cooling system is a really good thing, especially if you add any power at alll. Remember also, these cars were built in the early days of emission control, so they were built to run at 195F. Not optimum for power but good for reducing CO and HC
Internal stats may not flow enough to properly cool a 2L