RRoller123 wrote:Pulling the head, with the Intake manifold attached, is not difficult at all, just takes a little paying attention to. Remove the FI feed and the top plenum. The Exhaust Manifold has enough play that it can be pushed back out of the way just enough to allow the studs to clear. Make sure that the TTS connection on the underside of the intake gets unplugged! Then it is simple to work on the assembly as whole on the bench.
It is light enough that one person can do it, although having a second person available, placing strategic fender pads, towels, etc. to avoid scratching things, and taking the weight when needed, is a very good idea. Depressurize the FI fuel lines or you will get a surprise gasoline spray in the face. I do this by wrapping a microfiber towel around the hose connection at the CSI and removing it there. Battery disconnected!
The whole removal operation can be done in less than an hour at a leisurely pace once you get the hang of it. Then all the gaskets you mention are easily replaced. No leaks yet for me after doing this, knock on wood.
Thanks RRoller123 for the advice!
I think I'm leaning towards removing the the block and head as a whole; to avoid removing the timing belt a little longer.
I will definitely be waiting until my shop manual comes.
In the meantime I'll start cleaning the fuel system out, ( tank, lines, injectors ) as well as remove the radiator and other parts in order to make the engine more accessible.
So another Question, I need to rent an engine hoist/ cherry picker deal, what should i put the pulled motor on in order to clean and work on it easily?
I've seen another post where someone used a carpet dolly and a rectangular built wooden frame, for the oil pan to drop in to; allowing the motor to be moved/spun around.
