Hot Start - no she didn't!
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 11:37 am
- Your car is a: 1985 Fiat Azzurra
Hot Start - no she didn't!
1985 Azzura automatic with Bosch L-Jectronic - and she won't restart/hot start. Changed fuel pump (twice), thermostat, cleaned fuel injector, adjusted timing, adjusted values, water pump - hoses- (now If am getting crazy) - even talked to Bosch techs. She is fit - but, won't start hot...........got any ideas? Never rebuilt - original motor with the exception of bits and bobs needed for maintenance. She is one step away from paint and new carpet, if I can get her to stop leaving me in parking lots!! Cold starts you ask? Starts right up with proper Fiat rumble.
- MikeHynes
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2010 5:55 am
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000
- Location: Central Il.
Re: Hot Start - no she didn't!
You'll have to do a little checking to narrow down the reason the car won't start. Is it lack of spark, or fuel? Both can cause the problem you describe.
If you have no spark when it won't start, you might change the 4 pin ignition control module mounted below the coil. Excessive heat hurts it. Performance versions are available and relatively inexpensive. Changing them isn't difficult (don't forget the heat sink jell), so just changing it out for a performance version might not be a waste if the old one isn't bad. (The old one could then go into the - known good spares inventory.)
If you have spark you probably have an issue with your EFI. The Bosch L-Jetronic system is pretty simple, and not difficult to troubleshoot. Most parts are pretty reasonably priced too. To troubleshoot you'll need a VOM and you'll need to know how to use it. You'll also need a troubleshooting manual. While this (below) is from an X1/9 website, the operation of the Spider FI system is the same, and most components are too. You can use this guide to troubleshoot your issues. You'll want to check for air leaks, the hose between the AFM and intake may be cracked, or the clamps on the AFM or intake may be loose. Also, the connection to the AAV often cracks and is difficult to see. Next check that the H2O temp sensor is within specs, it is the most "influential" sensor and could be out of range when hot. If you do have spark when the car won't start, follow the steps outlined in the guide, and if the FI system is the problem, you should find the culprit.
http://x19.xwebforums.org/wiki/index.ph ... leshooting
If you have no spark when it won't start, you might change the 4 pin ignition control module mounted below the coil. Excessive heat hurts it. Performance versions are available and relatively inexpensive. Changing them isn't difficult (don't forget the heat sink jell), so just changing it out for a performance version might not be a waste if the old one isn't bad. (The old one could then go into the - known good spares inventory.)
If you have spark you probably have an issue with your EFI. The Bosch L-Jetronic system is pretty simple, and not difficult to troubleshoot. Most parts are pretty reasonably priced too. To troubleshoot you'll need a VOM and you'll need to know how to use it. You'll also need a troubleshooting manual. While this (below) is from an X1/9 website, the operation of the Spider FI system is the same, and most components are too. You can use this guide to troubleshoot your issues. You'll want to check for air leaks, the hose between the AFM and intake may be cracked, or the clamps on the AFM or intake may be loose. Also, the connection to the AAV often cracks and is difficult to see. Next check that the H2O temp sensor is within specs, it is the most "influential" sensor and could be out of range when hot. If you do have spark when the car won't start, follow the steps outlined in the guide, and if the FI system is the problem, you should find the culprit.
http://x19.xwebforums.org/wiki/index.ph ... leshooting
herfiat wrote:1985 Azzura automatic with Bosch L-Jectronic - and she won't restart/hot start. Changed fuel pump (twice), thermostat, cleaned fuel injector, adjusted timing, adjusted values, water pump - hoses- (now If am getting crazy) - even talked to Bosch techs. She is fit - but, won't start hot...........got any ideas? Never rebuilt - original motor with the exception of bits and bobs needed for maintenance. She is one step away from paint and new carpet, if I can get her to stop leaving me in parking lots!! Cold starts you ask? Starts right up with proper Fiat rumble.
- courtenay
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 1321
- Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:41 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000
- Location: Courtenay, BC, Canada
Re: Hot Start - no she didn't!
My '80 fi would start cold but not hot. Turned out to be the fuel pump. To find out, turn the ignition on and move the AFM flap a bit. You should hear the fuel pump activate.
Bruce Shearer
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 11:37 am
- Your car is a: 1985 Fiat Azzurra
Re: Hot Start - no she didn't!
Thank you both: Courtenay and Mike!! I will test and inspect this evening. Fingers crossed!!! Ride safe, Jacqui
-
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:37 pm
- Your car is a: 1984 Pininfarina
- Location: Gunbarrel, Colorado
Re: Hot Start - no she didn't!
I had a similar problem with my '84; started perfectly when cold, but when hot it would fire for perhaps one or two revolutions then die. After that it would crank but never fire. Suspecting flooding I tried WOT while cranking for 30 s. Also tried disconnecting cold start injector and cranked for an extended time. It never fired in either test. I had to wait hours, often overnight but then it would start just fine.
I learned that if it was hot, it would start ok if I applied WOT before the first crank. Today I forgot and had a repeat of one or two cranks of firing, stalling, then no more firing.
This time I disconnected the air flow boot from the AFM outlet, AND disconnected the cold start injector. Theory was that the AFM air flap would not open so the four main injectors would fire minimally if at all, and the excess air through the open boot would clear the flood.
It cranked for a bit and then started, and sputtered on long enough for me to run around to reconnect the air boot at which point it instantly returned to normal idle.
So it seems I have a work-around, but expect that I also have a bad thermo time switch, which I think disables the CSI when the engine is warm so replacing it should solve my problem.
You could accomplish the same thing by disconnecting the CSI and the injector ground, but this was quicker.
Larry
I learned that if it was hot, it would start ok if I applied WOT before the first crank. Today I forgot and had a repeat of one or two cranks of firing, stalling, then no more firing.
This time I disconnected the air flow boot from the AFM outlet, AND disconnected the cold start injector. Theory was that the AFM air flap would not open so the four main injectors would fire minimally if at all, and the excess air through the open boot would clear the flood.
It cranked for a bit and then started, and sputtered on long enough for me to run around to reconnect the air boot at which point it instantly returned to normal idle.
So it seems I have a work-around, but expect that I also have a bad thermo time switch, which I think disables the CSI when the engine is warm so replacing it should solve my problem.
You could accomplish the same thing by disconnecting the CSI and the injector ground, but this was quicker.
Larry
1984 pininfarina, Honda S2000 seats, daily fair weather driver
2006 BMW 330 CIc, sensible winter convertible
2006 BMW 330 CIc, sensible winter convertible