Sure enough, the old gasket was literally squeezing and fracturing out of the seam. I related the usual methods of changing the gasket, but Nick wanted to try something. We disconnected the bottom engine mount nuts, and raised the engine with a screw jack until it just stopped. Nick placed some steel wedges in the mount gap, and we lowered the engine onto the wedges, giving ourselves about 3 inches of working space over the cross member. After scraping and cleaning and flushing the oil pan (lots of grey sealant used by the PO), we realized we did not have enough space to clear the oil pump pickup and remove the oil pan. Something Mike (Seebeelt) mentioned in an old post came to me. We covered the (filthy...
) cross member with a shop rag. I rotated the new gasket 90 degrees, slipped the long end up over the rear lip of the oil pan. Brought it forward and rotated it back , lifting the right side up over the right lip. Slid it left enough to clear the left lip, and up, over, and into place. Inspected to ensure no debris on or under the gasket, and then we bolted it down (used Nick's new $500 digital torque wrench...nailed 7 ft lbs on every bolt!). Jacked the engine, removed the wedges, and lowered the engine right back down on the mounts, without drama (or pickle forks!). Also...we did remember the passenger side exhaust shield for the mount! Refilled with fresh oil, started the engine, and..... dry oil pan/down pipe, no drips!Obviously this was easier because we had a full sized shop lift; standing beats prone-on-back any day. But the bottom bolt/gasket rotating idea (Thanks, Mike!!) might prove easier for some than working from the top of the engine mounts.
Two trips to work, and still dry; and we're going to make the Botham show in two weeks! (And....Milwaukee for FFO next summer!!!)
