Steering Idler (Oil filled type) Salvage

[kmoses]

I'm rebuilding the front end of my spider and decided to pull the steering idler and check the fluid level.
When I removed the top cap, there was some oil and I thought everything was going to be in good working condition.


I then removed the section with the spring loaded balls, exposing the lower chamber and guess what I found......no oil!


I ended up stripping it to the bare housing, removing the old seal, machining a O-ring grove in the shaft bore (near the bottom), and prepping the old seal bore for a new double lip radial seal. The new seal is 31mm x 20mm x 7mm. I did pack the area between the new O-Ring and radial seal with brake caliper grease (is waterproof, handles hi-temps, does not dry out and has a low breakaway). Hopefully this repair will last.


O-Ring location at base of shaft housing.


Double Lip seal (the bore that held the factory seal needed to be opened up .015" to accept the new 31mm OD seal.


Everything reassembled.

[So Cal Mark]

it's always a surprise when it appears the idler has oil in it until you remove the top plate

[kmoses]

Photos updated to show O-Ring location and new 31x20x7 Double lip seal.

[vandor]

I usually take out the seals from the paddles and semi-fill them with grease, as that won't leak out.

[kmoses]

When you go from gear oil to grease, do you add a fitting so that the shaft can be greased?

[johndemar]

A zirc fitting can be place on the side of the idler.

If you go over to the Mira site, Kelly Dicker has a detailed process there on how to do it.
Sorry, no link, the site is a little awkward to navigate.

[Fi8spider]

Nice write up on the seal arrangement and size.
Is the recommendation here to use grease instead of a hydraulic fluid to fill the chambers?

[spider2081]

really nice job

[Stugots]

Good write up. But I have a question. I am trying to disassemble mine. I got the top plate off with no issue, but the middle section with the 4 ball bearings wont come off. It is loose and spins on there. It doesn't appear to be threaded from your pictures. I tried prying with a flat blade, but it just won't come off. I am hesitant to put too much pressure on it because it seems like it should just pop off. How easy is it supposed to be to get off? Is it possible I have seized something up already?

[kmoses]

Mine had a little drag when taking it off and putting it on. I would remove the lower nut and arm (mark the arm and shaft with a punch so it goes back on the shaft in the same location). You should then be able to remove the shaft and then the cap. I used 90wt. oil in my rebuild but it looks like grease is a good option also.

[KevAndAndi]

I'm usually a fan of restoration, rebuilding, and preservation of original parts, but I gotta say: For me, it seemed clear that the better way was to replace the idler with the new, dry ball-bearing version. I'm curious as to why folks would prefer to spend the time and effort of rebuilding the oil-filled version which always carries a risk of leaking.

Not judging - just wondering.

[DieselSpider]

I'm usually a fan of restoration, rebuilding, and preservation of original parts, but I gotta say: For me, it seemed clear that the better way was to replace the idler with the new, dry ball-bearing version. I'm curious as to why folks would prefer to spend the time and effort of rebuilding the oil-filled version which always carries a risk of leaking.

Not judging - just wondering.

The steering damper built into the oil filled version can afford some drivers an extra margin of control in certain driving conditions. If you rarely drive on rough roads with potholes and frost heaves you might never notice the difference. One could install an external steering damper on the center link and anchor it to the cross member if they went with the dry idler and didn't like the looser feeling.

[vandor]

FWIW only the 124 Sports had the oil filled idler, the sedans and wagons' idlers had bushings.

[Fi8spider]

Nice write up.

Once again lovely job on the lower seal.

[baltobernie]

Great write-up and photos; thanks. Can you recommend a source for the seal you used? And the finished dimension of the housing?