noisy "suspension"

micbrody · Post by **micbrody** » Wed May 04, 2016 8:06 pm

I recently replaced the a-arm bushings on both sides (upper and lower), along with shocks. The car drives much better. However, I still hear some metal "clanking" sounds when I go over bumps. I know that my sliding calipers can make a little racket when I use brakes(I can hear them release), so some of the noise could be that; but I really don't think its the same type of noise.

My list of possibilities:
1) I used original spring cups. The rubber on them seemed very hard. Not sure if it was oxidized; or they are suppose to be high density. This is my leading suspicion on the suspension noise. Does anyone have experience with spring cup noise before vs after new spring cups applied? I did replace all the shocks; still have creaking noise in back , also. Could be same problem? or maybe panhard rod bushings..... but that wouldn't explain front noise
2) I had to loosen front sway bar when I did A-arm work. One of the bushings was split. I know I need to get a new bushing, but the other bushings were intact, and noise is coming from both sides of front end.

3) front bearing need to be repacked/replaced. A tiny amount of wiggle at the 12 oclock-6 oclock wiggle; Also, car slightly swerves to the left when braking.
4) the actual springs??? I don't think they would make a noise ........

5) I did not replace the ball joints on a-arm. They seemed snug but still had full range of rotation

6) I did not replace any steering linkages (tie rod ends, steering bar, etc. ) My steering seems easy and precise

lglade · Post by **lglade** » Wed May 04, 2016 8:40 pm

I had a similar issue and it was caused by a loose shock. Open your hood and push down on your front right fender several times while looking at the top of your right shock; repeat the process on the left side too. If either shock is loose, you should be able to see it moving around in the shock tower.

vandor · Post by **vandor** » Wed May 04, 2016 11:15 pm

Make sure all 6 crossmember to body bolts/nuts are tight.

micbrody · Post by **micbrody** » Wed May 04, 2016 11:37 pm

Before I completed bushung job, I torqued all the crossmember nuts/bolts to their factory specs.
I like the idea that shock bolts are just not torqued/tightened enough . That would be a great reason for the noise , and easy solution . I'll check that tomorrow

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Thu May 05, 2016 5:20 am

lglade wrote:I had a similar issue and it was caused by a loose shock. Open your hood and push down on your front right fender several times while looking at the top of your right shock; repeat the process on the left side too. If either shock is loose, you should be able to see it moving around in the shock tower.

This was exactly the same problem I had with mine, loose shock head causing a clank on bumps. Turned out to be worn shock top rubber bushings because I hadn't installed them correctly in the first place, but that is another story.

Another thing I found that was making a surprising amount of clanking noise

was that one of the brake line retainer clips was missing at the point where the line passes through the support bracket out near the caliper. This is the point where the main brake line meets the shorter line that goes to the caliper. It would clank constantly on bumps as well. AR sells those little clips, they look like small horse shoes.

My door sill plates also clanked (or clinked, in this case

), and I earlier posted a fix on that, which worked very well to quiet them down.

Pete

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Thu May 05, 2016 5:28 am

A worn or dry idler arm will also clank and creak when going over bumps.

joelittel · Post by **joelittel** » Thu May 05, 2016 9:17 am

Replacing the engine mounts made a big difference on mine.

micbrody · Post by **micbrody** » Fri May 20, 2016 9:16 pm

I checked shocks by rocking up and down. I don't see anything moving.

I just got back from a long drive. Near end of drive, I had another theory:

I noticed when I was coasting and going over bumps, I heard the metallic chatter; but if I slightly depressed the brakes, there seemed to be minimal chatter. So I think my calipers are making the noise when they are in their resting position. When I have tires off, the floating part of caliper which slides can be hand jiggled. Can this be making the noise that I am hearing on even small pumps? If so, how can I "tighten" them? Do I need 'thicker' locking blocks ?(not sure what they are called; but the plates that hold the cotter pins so assembly stays together)

On one of the diagrams they also label a radial spring that attaches to caliper bracket. What does this do? I thought is was just there to prevent the locking blocks from sliding out via interference with cotter pin. Maybe it tightens things? Can I tighten them?

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Sat May 21, 2016 12:48 am

Metallic chatter when coasting is usually rear axle pinion lash out of adjustment.

These springs on the 80 and newer if I am reading the parts listing correctly should prevent chattering of the calipers:

micbrody · Post by **micbrody** » Sat May 21, 2016 11:37 am

Diesel,
Thanks for response.
Those brake clip springs are on my brake pads. They definitely work; I had them briefly off. It caused significant squeaking of brake pads. I think they dampen any vibration during active braking. they also, seem to keep brake pads from jiggling in non-braking conditions. I have one clip per brake pad.....I believe that is correct.

As for noise in back: I definitely have noise in front AND back. The noise appears similar. Back noise could be "rear axle pinion lash"........but that phrase is like Greek to me......I have no idea where and what to look for.......

The spring I was talking about is:
http://www.autoricambi.us/product/BR0-0 ... r-Spring-/

Maybe I need to adjust/bend/replace and that would "tighten up' caliper assembly.
As for the locking block that accepts the cotter pin: My calipers seems to have at least two different "styles"; (from my memory) There are two different lengths; and some have 'grooves' in surface; others have smooth surface. Some seem to go in tightly; others are much easier to install. Anyone have similar experiences with these different slides? caliper chatter when going over bumps?

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Sun May 22, 2016 12:03 pm

The metallic chattering when coasting is usually the rear axle gears being worn or out of adjustment which is adjusted at the pinion gear shaft that drives the rear axle if things are not too badly worn out. The chatter can be transmitted by the drive shaft towards the front of the car.

My 78 is doing the same but has a different style rear axle so I have the option of getting a new pre-loaded differential assembly that just bolts on from the front and has all new gears and bearings.

On the 78 the shims are all the same so there is no chance of a mismatch so someone with the newer model would have to chime in on those. The anti-chatter springs would need to be snug enough to perform that function however you do need to have the shims correct. The springs when correct should press the calipers and shims together and prevent rattling. When you install the shims you should have to provide some reasonable pressure against the springs in order for the shims to slide into place otherwise the springs are not installed correctly.

I will have to deal with the rear axle on mine eventually but have that on hold since the Spider and an Aprilia Motorbike are my only vehicles and the Aprilia is currently out of service due to a belt shredding and getting inside the engine case after tearing out a crankcase seal. You would be amazed at the mess that a primary drive belt can make when you are traveling at interstate speeds. At least the rear wheel did not lock up on me.

micbrody · Post by **micbrody** » Sun May 22, 2016 11:01 pm

I inspected my brakes. Turns out I assembled caliper to brake pad assembly in a way that the springs were not pushing on the groove in caliper; instead they were on outside, with locking plate sliding directly over it. Result was there was no spring pressure pressing on caliper. Everything tightens up when brakes applied; but nothing from keeping caliper from giggling against pad bracket when going over bumps in non-braking state.

I re-assembled and .......... Success!!!

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Mon May 23, 2016 4:48 am

Great news that it was the simple solution. Sometimes taking photos helps however the previous custodian of the vehicle would have had to put it back together correctly.

I keep my old Samsung S3 cell phone as a beater for taking pictures on projects where I don't want to mess up my active cell phone.

micbrody · Post by **micbrody** » Mon May 23, 2016 6:59 pm

That is a good idea for future problems; I have posted photos before, but it has not been an easy process from my phone

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