Engine Block Drain Line

[RRoller123]

You are probably right. The operating temp is claimed to be -40F to +365F, but that is surely for the fluid that it carries. I bet that doesn't include that little plastic covering on the lever.

[KevAndAndi]

Yep, I just assumed that the lever was going to be reduced to bare metal fairly quickly.

As much as I like the EZ valve, I decided to try something different. I found this website that carries adapters with male M10 threads (both x1.0 and x1.5 for the block and the AR aluminum radiator, respectively) on one end and female 1/8 NPT threads on the other. That makes it easy to stick a common 1/8 NPT drain cock into the female end.

I'm somewhat concerned about the apparent slight taper of the block drain hole, but perhaps if I put high-temp sealant on the adapter threads, it will make a tight seal. Also, the drain cocks are rated to 250F. I wonder if that's adequate.

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/92 ... 1&CartID=1

[RRoller123]

Received this in an email from the EZ Oil Drain Folks:

"Here's a mail order form that can be downloaded off the website and easily printed. Feel free to post it on the forum too so other people can use it if they'd like.

http://www.oildrainvalve.net/content/orderform.pdf

Thank you,

Ryuji Mitsuoka Sales Manager Global Sales Group (425)999-1200 www.EZoildrain.com"

[KevAndAndi]

Received this in an email from the EZ Oil Drain Folks:

"Here's a mail order form that can be downloaded off the website and easily printed. Feel free to post it on the forum too so other people can use it if they'd like.

http://www.oildrainvalve.net/content/orderform.pdf

Thank you,

Ryuji Mitsuoka Sales Manager Global Sales Group (425)999-1200 http://www.EZoildrain.com"

Thanks. I very well might end up ordering one eventually. Actually, the main reason why I ordered two adapters and drain cocks from the other website was that ordering only one adapter/drain cock (for my radiator) did not meet their minimum order amount. Therefore, I thought I'd give them a try for the block drain, as well. The drain cocks don't have the capability of hose connection (as far as I know), but they should allow for measures (e.g., collection in a cut-in-half milk jug) that would make less of a mess when draining the block.

[KevAndAndi]

Here are pics of the adapter/petcock combinations in the aluminum radiator and engine block drain holes.

[RRoller123]

Looks good! What did the thread at the bottom of the radiator turn out to be? I.e. what is the male thread on the adaptor?

[KevAndAndi]

Looks good! What did the thread at the bottom of the radiator turn out to be? I.e. what is the male thread on the adaptor?

It is M10x1.5 on the radiator. I haven't snugged anything down yet, and it will probably be a couple of weeks until I refill with coolant. We'll see how those parallel threads fare in that slightly tapered hole in the block. Also, I will need to add a copper washer to the adapter in the radiator.

[klweimer]

Looks good. I'd go with some sealant on all the fittings when you do the final install.
Kirk

[KevAndAndi]

Looks good. I'd go with some sealant on all the fittings when you do the final install.
Kirk

Absolutely! I should have mentioned that. The engine block hole will get an especially liberal dose.

[RRoller123]

I received the part a few days ago from EZDrain Oil Valve, http://ezoildrainvalve.com/valve-size-chart.html (EZ-125H) and have started looking at installing it. It looks to be well made, but installation will take some fiddling. The male valve threads are longer than the block plug, so it bottoms out before seating, thus it will need an adapter. Also, the body of the valve interferes with the protrusion on the block as you spin it in place, so the adapter will need to be of enough length to overcome the interference. Will keep working on this and see how it goes!

[124JOE]

use brass washers for your spacer

[RRoller123]

That will very likely leak, but I will come up with something and test it out. There wouldn't be enough threads engaged to make that work, I need to extend the assy out somehow. Anyway it is not my highest priority right now, I need to complete the top end re-assy and get this thing running. Since the hole in the block appears tapered, it needs to set fully to make a good seal. Some sort of adapter will do the trick.

Pete

[KevAndAndi]

I'm a bit confused. If there is interference, how are you able to get the valve to bottom out?

Leaving the interference aside for a moment: I see that the valve has an o-ring. You feel that unless that is seated, you will have a leak? If that is the case, then my arrangement described earlier in the post (with parallel threads on my adapter, going into the slightly tapered hole on the block) would also leak. I was hoping that with enough sealant, I could overcome the parallel-tapered mismatch. I guess I won't know until I try, but I have so many other priorities right now, it probably won't be for a while.

[RRoller123]

Unless I am mistaken, (which is usually the case) the original plug bottoms out, but it may just be that it hits a strong taper. Didn't feel like it though. Can't get in there easily enough to really see what is going on, but I am starting work on my second engine block and will take a closer look. To use it as is, it needs an extension adapter that I haven't found yet.

Pete

[joelittel]

Has any progress been made on the EZDrain Oil Valve?

I have one that I intend on installing, but I haven't looked into the previously mentioned adapter yet.

Just wondering if anyone has already found a solution.