Won't Start

[Odoyle]

Have you tested for the correct resistance at your ignition coil, or magnetic pickup? Also, check your ignition control module (behind the coil), I recently had to replace mine on my 83 after having a no start.

[RRoller123]

Thanks Roller,

I did a quick check of all the connections - all appears to be in order.

But it cranked when I sprayed starter fluid in the intake. That doesn't sound like flooding.

So I just pulled the CSI connection and connected a noid to it. Nothing. It didn't flash once. So, per Brad's book, I need to check each terminals to ground. I did and they both showed a connection, so then I checked the wire from CSI to thermal switch and it seems to be connected as well. So I guess I'm ordering a new thermal time switch? Does that sound right?

If the test was done with the car cold, the CSI should have fired, so if all the connections are correct, either the CSI is plugged, or it does sound like the TTS is bad.

Pete

[bmorgan5]

Thanks Pete - I'll check tonight. I'll pull the TTI and clean it up. I've been searching for a replacement... Oh - I just found it. It's expensive. Yikes. Well, since the guy I bought it from just told me he wants to buy it back, I might let him buy this. He's not all that mechanical, so I was trying to get it all fixed up for him. I'll try to clean it first. I really hope that's all it is.

Odoyle: The car runs and runs well once it's cranked. If there were a coil issue, could the car run? It just will not crank when it's a bit chilly out. Luckily, I live in South Louisiana, so this is not usually a problem, but it can be. But I also understand that the CSI can run even in the 80s. Did I read that right? Today started at 44 degrees. It will not crank without a little starter fluid. But once it cranks and warms up, it's great. Considering the failed noid check last night, I know at least I have a problem with that. I'll fix that first and see where it stands. Hopefully it just need to be cleaned up. But if I exhaust the CSI, I'll check in on the coils. Thank you.

[bmorgan5]

OK, so let me make sure I'm getting this right. I have re-verified that the CSI isn't firing by pulling it and putting into a clear container. It is not firing. So I when you say "clean the TTI", do you mean the connections? Or the actual sensor? When I pull the sensor, coolant is going to go everywhere. I don't want to pull it unless I need to. Is there any other way I can verify what is failing? Is there a resistance across the sensor or something?

[RRoller123]

According to the wiring diagram, the light blue/white wire at the CSI is made hot by terminal 86 of the relay set and terminal 4 of the ECU under the glove box. This particular diagram is somewhat confusing.... But make sure that you are getting voltage at that wire (for a few seconds anyway) when trying to start the engine cold.

If you get voltage there but no spray, then the CSI is definitely bad.

[bmorgan5]

Thanks again, Pete. I'll do try those. A few months ago, I hooked this CSI up to a 12v power supply and tested it using a pressured can of carts cleaner. It triggered correctly. So if that's still the case (it's triggering under power) the CSI is good. Plus I know I don't have power at the wire because the noid didn't light last night. I'll go check those connections on the ECU.

but of course, it's warmed up now, so she cranks up. Just needs a little tending to until it gets warmed up, but it's always done that.