Help with yoke removal on output shaft to drive shaft

[activekcc]

So, I dropped the drive shaft and took out the flex donut (replacing that and the yoke with dust cover attached), BUT, I can't figure out how to get the alignment bushing out, OR, how to get a wrench on the huge nut holding the yoke in place.
From what I can see, the alignment bushing should just slip off. I don't see any threads holding it on.
Any help would be appreciated.
KC

[kmoses]

The alignment bushing is retained with a small external snap ring. With the snap ring removed, a gear puller can be used to remove the alignment bushing (the bushing has a light press fit). Then remove the seal and spring that are behind the alignment bushing. The nut that holds the yoke can be removed with a deep socket (an impact gun works great for removal) after you flatten the edge of the washer that is bent up to lock the nut in place. Are you taking the yoke off to replace the rear seal?

[activekcc]

I'm replacing the yoke because the metal dust ring thing that is spot welded to it broke away and is rattling when the drive shaft turns.
I'm also replacing the alignment bushing and the rubber ring next to the spring. All with new grease.

Any chance I can use something else to get the alignment bushing off? I don't a have a puller.

[kmoses]

Mine would only come off with a puller, you may have better luck. I did want to warn you about the speedometer gear that is behind the yoke.
The speedometer gear fits the shaft with a slip fit and is located on the shaft with a ball and slot setup. Pulling off the yoke can cause the gear to disengage from the locating ball and rotate on the shaft without you knowing it. This can cause the ball to drop into the back of the gearbox or (as in my case) rotate out of position and crack the gear when you torque the yoke nut to 108 FT/LBS. You can see that the gear is seated correctly if you remove the shifter extension housing from the gearbox. I called three spider parts vendors before finding one , and it was the only one in stock ($69).

[activekcc]

Wow, thanks for the heads up. I wasn't paying attention to that as I was focused on the yoke and the parts leading to the flex donut. I'll keep my eyes open.
Thanks for the help with this.
BTW, if I'm going to use a puller to get the alignment bushing off, what do I put the new one back on with, and how far in do I push it?
I could use a deep socket and a hammer I guess. Just don't know how far to go with it.
Thanks again.

[kmoses]

Yes, just use a deep socket and hammer to tap it back on and there is a shoulder that it bottoms out against. The washer that is under the yoke nut has two tangs that engage the yoke inner spline and can shear off when removing the nut. The only vendor I found that had them in stock was www.spiderroadster.com the part is # 812688.

[activekcc]

Perfect. Thanks again. Now to go out and get a puller.
BTW, I'm pretty sure the snap ring isn't there, like its supposed to be. I blew air from my compressor around the bushing to get the grease off and I don't see anything the looks like a snap ring or washer or lock nut. Look s like I'll have to get one of those too.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks.

[SLOSpider]

I used a cheap battery post pulley to take mine off: Most auto parts stores have these

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4611 ... aQodjd8NBg

[activekcc]

That would have been perfect. I bought a 2 ton puller for $34.00 USD. It didn't work so well with 3 legs, as they kept slipping off. So I took one leg off and rearranged it to work with 2 legs. Much better.

BTW, that dang nut (that holds the yoke on ) is stuck on the output shaft. Just curious if the threads are counter clockwise, or normal clockwise?

Thanks

[kmoses]

The yoke retaining nut is a right hand thread so rotate counter clockwise to remove. Using a impact wrench and a deep 32mm impact socket will make short work of it.

[activekcc]

Thanks a lot. Apparently, I need to get to the gym if I'm using a breaker bar.
I'm off to get an impact driver.

Thanks again.

[activekcc]

How important is the thin washer that goes inbetween the yoke and nut , on the output shaft.
I stripped two nuts trying to get them on the shaft. I think the washer is just too thick.
The first two/three nut threads stripped.
Ideas?

Thanks.

[kmoses]

You have something not seated correctly from the yoke towards the front of the transmission for that to happen. When everything is seated correctly you will have more than a 9/16" of threads showing before the washer and nut are installed (the washer is only 3/64" thick). Did you clean the yoke and shaft splines and check for burrs when you removed the yoke? The yoke should slide into position with very little force. The speedometer grear out of position will move you out 1/4". If it was me, I would remove the upper shifter extention housing (4 bolts) and to see if the speedometer gear is seated. Then if needed remove the the rear section of the gearbox (6 nuts) 4 on the outside 1 inside top and one inside on the bottom that you must remove the lower transmission cover to access.

[kmoses]

This may help you see how close you are to having the yoke seated. On my '79, the distance from the back of the yoke to the intersection of the transmission mount and rear transmission housing is 1 1/4" on my car. I would think your car should be close to this within +/- 1/16".

[kmoses]

This is what you should see when looking in from the top of rear transmission housing with the shifter extention housing removed. No gap between the speedometer gear and the bearing race it butts against.