Heat Shield Stud

[RRoller123]

I pulled my exhaust heat shield, and of course (2) of the nuts came off easily, but the third came off with its mounting stud in tow. Question is, when putting the stud back in, is there any sealant, goop, adhesive, anti-seize, goodness knows what, that I apply to the threads that are going back into the manifold? Or just install it dry? Thanks!

Pete

[80spiddy]

Dry should be fine.

[RRoller123]

Thanks! Didn't look like there was any material on the threads, but it probably hasn't come out in 36 years......

Related question: Does anyone run an FI system without the heat shield? Not really considering it, just wondering if it is widely done.

Pete

[So Cal Mark]

I certainly wouldn't install ANY exhaust nuts/bolts without using anti-seize on the threads and cleaning the threads first

[TX82FIAT]

If you have a stock set up I would keep the heat shield. Not so much for the air sheltered by the air box but for the electronics in the area (coil, dist). There are a few things you can do the get cooler air into engine compartment but they are not needed with the factory set up.

[RRoller123]

The threads on both sides of this exhaust manifold stud (this is the bottom of the three studs that holds the exhaust heat shield on) are all buggered up. I don't see these for sale anywhere, does anybody have one? Let me know. Send by mail, pay with PayPal, whatever, etc. will work fine. Thanks!

Pete

[TX82FIAT]

Pete, If you know the length and thread you could order replacement stud searching the internet. If there is a local "Fastenal" store near you they might have what you need. It may be a straight threaded stud without the nice flat space in the middle of the stud but it will work.

[RRoller123]

Thanks, but Fastenal no dice, nothing remotely close in stock (We have a Fastenal here in Plymouth) This really surprised me. And nothing at the various local auto parts stores. I don't think this comes up often enough for today's retail environment, and thus almost everything of this sort eventually moves to the net. The movement of low volume materials purchases of all sorts to the net is like an incoming tide. I tend to get fed up (or bored or both) wasting gasoline after 2 retail tries, and go right to the net thereafter.

For anyone else looking to solve this problem, here is a source. Free shipping, reasonable cost. Ebay.

The studs are M8-1.25, double ended.

The depth of the hole in the manifold measures 19.89mm on my 4-2-1, probably 20mm nominal, so the short end of these studs (~14mm) can go in there, with anti-seize as Mark suggested, and the longer end (~24mm) can be used for the heat shield installation. Install the stud with 2 stacked nuts, remove them, install the shield with nuts and washers, and then the excess can be cut off if necessary. But it may not stick out far enough to matter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151829141922

Pete

[KevAndAndi]

I have an '81 and am actually looking for a heat shield, so this stud information is helpful; thanks. I've never quite been able to discern exactly how the heat shield is installed, but of course that's difficult without having a shield in one's possession.

[bobplyler]

I've had good luck with
https://www.belmetric.com/

[RRoller123]

That is a keeper! Thanks! Great web site.

[KevAndAndi]

+1 for Belmetric. They're an awesome source.

[klweimer]

My favorite for almost anything is McMaster Carr in Chicago. They have a huge selection of metric and english hardware, as well as everything else known to man. http://www.mcmaster.com Not the cheapest, but very good commercial grade quality.
Related comment - Per Mark's earlier post, you really need to chase the threads in your exhaust manifold before putting the studs back in. You will be amazed how much crap comes out. To do this however, you need a bottoming tap (which you can get at McMaster), not a starting tap, which is what you typically get at the local hardware store. The bottoming tap has full thread cutting all the way to the bottom of the tap, which will clean up the bottom of the threaded hole much better. Spray in a little WD-40 or 3 in 1 oil before you run in the tap. Remove the tap every couple of turns and blow out whatever comes loose with compressed air or more WD-40. Make sure the tap has started cleanly into the threaded hole, it should be perpendicular to the surface around the hole. Cleaning out a threaded hole like this should never take much force. If you have to start cranking on the tap, you've either hit the end of the original threads or something else is wrong.
Kirk

[RRoller123]

Thanks for the info! Will do.