Installing New rear shocks

[the99kid]

Hi all. While my wife was driving the other day, the tells me 'something fell off the car'...not good. Well, turns out the rear drivers side shock has come loose within the spring. Specifically, the top (threaded) part was just rattling around in the trunk area. Looks like the threads are stripped to me. So, I have a new shock now, and am putting it back together with a question. I have 2 rubber pieces, 2 large 'washers' and a nut. How do all these go together at the top mount?

Thanks

Mark

[azruss]

from bottom to top: washer with flange up, rubber donut, car, rubber donute, washer with flange down, nut, lock nut. So the bodywork has the rubber donut on top and bottom with the washers outside of that.

[rjkoop]

from bottom to top: washer with flange up, rubber donut, car, rubber donute, washer with flange down, nut, lock nut. So the bodywork has the rubber donut on top and bottom with the washers outside of that.

These forums are great. This post is 3 years old yet it will help with the new KYB rear shock install!

[njoconnor]

Richard, make sure you have the bushing which comes with the shocks sandwiched between the large washers. IIRC, the bushing (a metal "tube" actually) fits inside the rubber donuts, and fills the space between the shock piston rod and the opening in the car chassis. No tube means great potential for wobble and damage to shock and chassis.

I had to sand the shock piston rods with a little emery cloth to get the bushings to fit.

Neil

[rjkoop]

Richard, make sure you have the bushing which comes with the shocks sandwiched between the large washers. IIRC, the bushing (a metal "tube" actually) fits inside the rubber donuts, and fills the space between the shock piston rod and the opening in the car chassis. No tube means great potential for wobble and damage to shock and chassis.

I had to sand the shock piston rods with a little emery cloth to get the bushings to fit.

Neil

I'll have to check more closely. I don't remember seeing a metal bushing/tube with the shock parts. Also I don't remember taking off a metal bushing/tube from the old shock either. I'll take a closer look today.

[rjkoop]

I checked for the metal bushing on the old, the new shock (and installation kit) and there is no metal bushing. Should I worry? There is no mention of it on the installation instructions. The rubber edge seems to fit well into the shock mount hole.

[njoconnor]

The Koni's had the steel bushings, but no lips on the rubber bushings. So, I suspect you're fine as installed. Big thing is making sure the shock does not move laterally in the mounting hole. Never installed KYB's, so not sure what comes with them.....

Great pix, BTW. Amazing how much a clean diff, bright springs, and new shocks freshen up the look and the ride.

Neil

[rjkoop]

The Koni's had the steel bushings, but no lips on the rubber bushings. So, I suspect you're fine as installed. Big thing is making sure the shock does not move laterally in the mounting hole. Never installed KYB's, so not sure what comes with them.....

Great pix, BTW. Amazing how much a clean diff, bright springs, and new shocks freshen up the look and the ride.

Neil

Neil,
Thanks. It was a fun job and makes me smile when I see it and know that everything is done right. The old rear shocks were sticky so when I pushed down on the bumper it kind of stuck and then let go. Probably because they were old and rusty. New ones work like they should.

Now to think of what needs to be done next. I'm thinking about moving those bumpers closer to the body. I've seen it done really well. The fun never ends!

Richard

[njoconnor]

Allen Barnes (SoFlaFiat) made a comment to me as I was wrestling with the whole suspension question: "Once you're done, you'll *know* everything is installed correctly and to spec; it's a very reassuring feeling". He was right; I enjoy driving the car much more now that I have zero questions about the brakes, steering, or suspension pieces. Done and done right, thanks to the forum!

And, yeah....it's always the next project. Mine's arriving tomorrow from A/R: 95 amp alternator, to go with the new H4's I'm halfway through installing.

Neil

[rjkoop]

I did some searching and can't seem to find this info. Does anyone have torque values for the following rear suspension items?

Lower shock mount
Upper shock mount
Trailing arms
Panhard rod

And I assume have 2 passengers in the car while I apply torque should be fine?

[rjkoop]

In my International Auto Parts manual I found this page.



Can I assume the reaction rod is the trailing arms (the short and the long one) and the cross rod is the panhard rod? If so it's weird the terms are different.

[njoconnor]

Happened to have my original Haynes sitting right here:

Lower shock mount (Shock to axle casing): 11 ftlbs (yeah...11)
Upper shock mount (Shock to body shell nut): 11
Trailing arms 72 (all)
Panhard rod 72

I can tell you pushing 72 ftlbs up on those trailing arms cancels the need for your gym session that day....

Neil

[njoconnor]

The 11 ft lb setting on the lower shock mount refers to the bracket which attaches to the axle. Dug out the factory manual and it reminds me that the lower shock bolt (attaching shock to the bracket) is 36 ft lbs, which makes more sense.

Factory sez 58 (like your IAP manual) for the panhard and trailing arms. I used 72. No harm no foul so far.

Neil