Engine Rebuild - Rolling Restoration

[emurray919]

I purchased a 1978 124 with plans for a rolling restoration. Plans started to change quickly, first with a leaking rear transmission leak and then brake cylinder problems. I've removed the engine and put new rings in as well as re-seated the valves. Any reason why I would or would not want to change the main bearings on the engine and connecting rod bearings? If I change the bearings, what else should I do?

[baltobernie]

No longer a "rolling restoration", eh?
Have you had the oil pan off? If there's not a lot of gunk, you could use a Plastigauge to determine if your bottom end bearings need replacing. I can't think of why you'd replace them if not necessary. I'd suggest a new oil pump if the existing one is of unknown age. Service the crankcase breather, then new hoses and seals all around.

[emurray919]

I've seen a few YouTube videos on plastigauge and it looks easy enough. There is some play in the rods (I can move them slightly along the crank but there is no movement in the crank. When I put new rings in the rod bearings looked nice so I put them back.

There was a significant amount of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan when I first took it off - now cleaned out. I think I'll try the plastigage and see how they look. I'd like to get the car on the road and find the other surprises waiting for me instead of doing a complete engine rebuild and then find out I've got other issues.

Thanks

[baltobernie]

I'd like to get the car on the road and find the other surprises waiting for me instead of doing a complete engine rebuild and then find out I've got other issues.

I think that's a good plan. I'm puzzled by the number of new owners who rush out and buy new wheels, etc. before spending any time solidifying critical systems on the car.

[ScoopMan]

Probably stating the obvious, but taking the various bearing caps off allows a visual inspection of the crank surfaces as well. Hopefully they are nice and shiny and smooth.

[emurray919]

Great suggestions - thank you. I've used plastiguage on the piston rods and gap is between 0.0015" and 0.002" which is quite good. The finish on the bearings looks quite healthy, and I've put the motor back together. After lapping my valves the exhaust valves don't have the clearance I need so I'm replacing shims then I think I'll rebuild the carb and call it a day.

Once I've got the engine back together I'm going to replace the seals in the transmission. Based on your comments I'm also going to take a look inside the transmission and check visual health. If things look good I plan to assemble the drivetrain and focus my effort on other needs to get the car roadworthy so I can make a proper assessment of where I should focus my efforts. Brake caliper failure, broken wiper motor, and electrical issues will likely be my short-term focus after I ensure the transmission is "good enough."

Thanks for your input.

[emurray919]

As I'm assembling the engine I'm having trouble with the timing belt. My new timing belt has 146 teeth and the one I'm removing is faded by clearly 148 teeth. I looked at the engine numbers cast into the block and they are:
4377455
132AC40/9
The numbers stamped into the block just back from the oil filter are:
132C2 040
0908412

Any thoughts on if this motor has been taken from a different car, and is something other than a 1978 1800 cc? Should I just replace the timing belt with a 148 tooth version (41148 * 3/4")?

[baltobernie]

The 132C2 casting and the 148-tooth belt indicate you have a 2L motor from a 1979+

[emurray919]

Thank you.

Any idea where I could track down the details on the motor based on serial # or other markings? I want to avoid ordering parts that don't fit. I wonder for example if the new rings I just installed will cause me a problem. I'm reassembling the motor with a gasket set for a 1978 1800 cc motor and so far I haven't had any fit problems.

[fiatfactory]

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