So I'm having some very minor issues with the DFEV on my car. Neither one is a big deal, but both are things I'd like to make right.
First is the throttle linkage. I have a 1977, so it's the cam cover-mounted setup. It works fine, but because of the way the rod pulls upward on the carb it doesn't open the throttle 100%. It'll go to 90% open, but then the ball stud on the carb starts moving back downward (like from 12:00 to 1:00) and it stops. I'm sure I wouldn't notice the extra 2 horsepower I'd pick up, but it's something I'd still like to be right. I'd think going to a 75-76 setup mounted on the intake would fix it, and I'd basically just need the bracket, cable, and new end for the cable, correct?
Second is the choke. I put a manual choke on and it seems like using the choke isn't necessary at all. I've driven the car in 45-50 degree weather and the only use I have for the choke is to set the high idle when it's cold. If I leave the choke closed even halfway when it's cold it'll idle rough. Even driving when it's cold doesn't affect how the engine runs with no choke. Is this common? Could I just bypass the choke altogether and use the throttle knob to bump my idle up when it's cold? I don't plan on taking it out in weather any colder than 45 or so.
As usual, thanks for any info!
DFEV throttle and choke issues/adjustments
-
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:24 pm
- Your car is a: 1977 Spider
- Location: Jeannette, PA
- bradartigue
- Posts: 2183
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: DFEV throttle and choke issues/adjustments
I'm going to disagree with everything you posted...sorry:
Do not change the throttle assembly - the earlier type is inferior in every way. If the throttle cannot open the carburetor fully then you need to adjust the rod or replace the plate that the ball is mounted to with one that has a different angle. Talk to Pierce Manifolds, or get one from a ADFA from a 77 or 78.
All a choke does is help the motor start when cold. It will not stay open for long, and should not. DFEV electric chokes work well enough, if the car is starting and running cold then it is working.
The throttle pull thingy is a dangerous thing to use. It has no connection to the braking system and if you use it when driving and get in an accident, or need to brake quickly, you simply won't slow the motor. They were rendered illegal at some point in the 70s, for good reason.
Do not change the throttle assembly - the earlier type is inferior in every way. If the throttle cannot open the carburetor fully then you need to adjust the rod or replace the plate that the ball is mounted to with one that has a different angle. Talk to Pierce Manifolds, or get one from a ADFA from a 77 or 78.
All a choke does is help the motor start when cold. It will not stay open for long, and should not. DFEV electric chokes work well enough, if the car is starting and running cold then it is working.
The throttle pull thingy is a dangerous thing to use. It has no connection to the braking system and if you use it when driving and get in an accident, or need to brake quickly, you simply won't slow the motor. They were rendered illegal at some point in the 70s, for good reason.
1970 124 Spider
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
-
- Posts: 237
- Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1977 124 Spider
Re: DFEV throttle and choke issues/adjustments
Have to agree with Brad.
I've seen some reasonable arguments for water chokes on our vehicles. Basically, that since it opens the choke as the engine actually warms, it allows easier running on cold days.
The only decent argument I've seen for a hand throttle on any vehicle in this day & age is on off-road vehicles fitted with large, high-amp winches. When you get yourself good & stuck, you might need the engine at more than an idle to deliver enough juice to the winch to pull you out.
I've seen some reasonable arguments for water chokes on our vehicles. Basically, that since it opens the choke as the engine actually warms, it allows easier running on cold days.
The only decent argument I've seen for a hand throttle on any vehicle in this day & age is on off-road vehicles fitted with large, high-amp winches. When you get yourself good & stuck, you might need the engine at more than an idle to deliver enough juice to the winch to pull you out.