1972 Intake and Carb swap? Help?

[Ottoman735]

Hi, I recently bought a 1972 1600cc spider that came with an 1800 cc intake and a Weber 32/36 DEFV electric choke carb. The previous owner hadn't had a chance to put either in, and I figured it couldn't be that hard.
I was wrong, and I have no idea what I'm doing.
First off, with the intake:

What are the leads for? The black thing on the top appears to have a portion of the black rod snapped off. Should I be worried?
I was doing research and kept on reading things about vacuum lines and break lines and tons of different tubing being hooked up to the carb. However when I looked in my engine bay, aside from the fuel line, I could only see three other unhooked tubes.

I really have next to no knowledge on this car, and all my research hasn't yielded me anything specific to my situation. I have a friend who says he knows what to do, but he's flaky and I really want to get this car on the road and enjoy the beautiful fall in a beautiful convertible.
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
-Otto

[bradartigue]

That manifold and carburetor are a great match for your motor.

The manifold itself - you can remove everything from it except the connection to the brake booster, which is one of the ports on that "T" that you have a worm-type clamp on in your picture. The other ports can be blocked off. The senders on the bottom can be removed and blocked off, or just left alone and installed.

The water port on the manifold -the port on the manifold flange- is for an ADFA carburetor water choke. It can be blocked off.

The red hose in the top of your picture is for the crankcase vapors. It routes to the air cleaner. A DFEV you'll need a Sprint-type air cleaner (ask a vendor) and it will have a port for that thing to hook into.

The lower hose you have circled I think is your vapor return. Remove the hose (it is 30+ years old I can tell from the braided hose style) and block off the port. Later on you may use it for vapor return, but get the thing running first.

The DFEV needs +12V to the choke, check those unused wires on the firewall one of them is typically switch +12V (switch by the ignition) which is what you need.

[Ottoman735]

Thank you so much, I already have the air cleaner, so that's one less thing to worry about.
For the break booster, should I hook it up to anything or just leave it be and try to get the car running?
And the electrical leads on the manifold, I can't imagine what they could be for... Ignore those as well?

[bradartigue]

You can leave the booster disconnected and all ports blocked until you get it running, the hook it back up so you have power brakes.

Those switches are for the ignition relay. A 72 doesn't have the relay or dual point distribute so you don't need the switches.