top end re-build

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lesholmes
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Your car is a: 1978 spyder
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top end re-build

Post by lesholmes »

Looking for advise and help to remove and re-over-haul my twin heads on my 1978 124 spider. I have had a wet & dry compression test done and that seems to be ok I seem to have oil blowing by the valve stem seals. any help or advise would be great. thanks. Homer
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azruss
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Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI

Re: top end re-build

Post by azruss »

Pulling the head on a twin cam is pretty simple and straight forward. Need to drain the coolant, set motor at TDC and set the e-brake. disconnect exhaust at header junction with the tail pipe. disconnect throttle linkage, pull wires and hoses after you take a full set of picture of everything. remove fuel line and plug. remove timing belt. remove the 8 headbolts and lift. Get a good manual and read it in case i missed anything.
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azruss
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Re: top end re-build

Post by azruss »

Once the head is off, order a gasket kit, guides and seals, strip the head and take it to a good auto machinist.
fiatfactory
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Your car is a: 1970 128

Re: top end re-build

Post by fiatfactory »

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Last edited by fiatfactory on Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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azruss
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Re: top end re-build

Post by azruss »

I did remember there were 10 headbolts. not 8. Also check to see if the heater tube under the exhaust manifold has a clamp in the middle that ties to the exhaust manifold stud. That needs to be disconnected too.
vandor
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Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
Location: Texas, USA

Re: top end re-build

Post by vandor »

> set motor at TDC

Why? I always make sure none of the pistons are at TDC when reinstalling the head. That way I am sure there will not be any piston to valve interference when installing the head.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
131
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Your car is a: 1982 131 Superbrava warmed 2.0 litre.
Location: Tasmania, Australia

Re: top end re-build

Post by 131 »

vandor wrote:> set motor at TDC

Why? I always make sure none of the pistons are at TDC when reinstalling the head. That way I am sure there will not be any piston to valve interference when installing the head.
X2.
Mick.

'82 2litre 131, rally cams, IDFs & headers.
lesholmes
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Re: top end re-build

Post by lesholmes »

Thank you -thank you you guys are great I feel a lot better to tackle the project,I see International auto parts have manganese bronze valve guides is it worth doing while its all open in there Homer.
vandor
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Re: top end re-build

Post by vandor »

The stock guides are cast iron and they works fine with stock valves. We recommend using the bronze guides with the stainless steel high-performance valves. We carry both type.

On your '78 the valve guides are likely the later type with 14mm outside diameter, but it may be best to check before ordering replacements.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
fiatfactory
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Re: top end re-build

Post by fiatfactory »

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Last edited by fiatfactory on Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
nothing to see here... move along.
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bradartigue
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Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: top end re-build

Post by bradartigue »

lesholmes wrote:Thank you -thank you you guys are great I feel a lot better to tackle the project,I see International auto parts have manganese bronze valve guides is it worth doing while its all open in there Homer.
I've never had a set of stock guides wear out. They're tough. "Manganese Bronze" sounds like a cheap sun tan lotion.
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