Another Valve post

[divace73]

just reading this with interest as I have been shimming my engine, I did notice some torque settings mentioned and haynes in the same sentence.

I do recall that one of the haynes manual have an incorrect torque setting for the cam wheel bolt. If you have used the haynes manual and the torque setting seems a bit low (remember how hard it is to take this bolt off) please cross reference with another source that is not based on haynes

[aj81spider]

I replaced the cam seal on mine without removing the cam tower. You pull the timing belt off, remove the pulley and the cam seal is accessible behind the pulley. It was a pretty easy job - the hardest part being replacing the timing belt.

[70spider]

So how do I pull the cam seal out? Do I need a special tool?

[aj81spider]

Here's a post that includes how I did it. I bought a tool from Amazon for $13. Here's a photo. It was a breeze to get out using that.



http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... al#p210038

[divace73]

U. I then had my wife hold the cam wheel in place while I tightened it down, 21ftlbs according to the Haynes manual.

Hi 70spider,

I found while reading a81spider's thread that he tighten the cam wheel bolt to "87 ft-lbs called for in the manual" and I have noticed you mention 21ft-lbs but not sure at that point if you are referring to the cam box studs or the cam wheel bolt??
I know I have been caught out as there was a discrepancy in one of the books, I just cant remember which one??

Would hate to hear all that hard work then your cam wheel falling off with disastrous result.
May be worth a double check??

That tool that aj put up looks great, may have to get myself one.

[bradartigue]

87. 21 is barely hand tight.

The Haynes manual is terrible; throw it away. If I recall correctly there were versions of it that covered both the Spider and X1/9, which is absurd (the cars were 100% different, totally different platform, motor, etc.).

[70spider]

I got a new seal and the tool above, two hours later I was off and running again. So far no leaks, fingers crossed. I will burp the radiator tommorrow and run it for a longer drive. As for all the confusion on torque settings this is what I did: on the cam towers I figured the studs and nuts are the same size, 13mm wrench, as the intake manifold and the manual I have (not haynes) says 18lbs. As for the cam wheel my manual calls for 35lbs. Well I am becoming an expert on pulling and installing the cam belt, I figure over the past 18 months I have done it about 15 times . Thanks everyone for all the input, have a great drive and be safe , Pesto

[divace73]

As for the cam wheel my manual calls for 35lbs.

I think this may still be too low?? Does anybody have the Fiat manual handy to confirm?

[fiatfactory]

,

[70spider]

Driven sprocket to camshaft screw... 4196048....M12 x 1.25...R100.... 87 lb/ft...12 kg/m

, looks like I'll have to go back in and tighten it up, my only question how do you get 87lbs on the bolt while trying to hold the wheel?

Just putting this out there, if all the manuals have the wrong torque values it would be great if those in the know would post a thread with the correct values. Maybe a dedicated technical category.

[fiatfactory]

.

[70spider]

That's why every time you mentioned torque values and haynes in the same sentence you were told to throw the haynes manual in the trash.... and buy yourself a copy of the Fiat shop manual.

As I mentioned before I have 2 manuals that came with the car, the second manual by Henley Press (1971) which is the one I generally use. According to them when you re-install the camwheel to the cam you torque to 35lbs, I know this is wrong now.
I couldn't find a factory manual for sale online but I did stumble across an old post about shop manuals and in it Csaba posted a link to the free info. http://www.njfiats.org/joomla/images/st ... ntents.htm
It may not be specific for my '70 but I figure the torque values on the engine should be applicable.
Thank you for input, I appreciate your help.

To tighten the bolt before I cut an old belt and wrapped it around the wheel and held it in place with a vise-grip chain wrench. I figure I'll try this method again. I will hold the wheel in place while my wife torques it.

[fiatfactory]

.

[bradartigue]

That's why every time you mentioned torque values and haynes in the same sentence you were told to throw the haynes manual in the trash.... and buy yourself a copy of the Fiat shop manual.

As I mentioned before I have 2 manuals that came with the car, the second manual by Henley Press (1971) which is the one I generally use. According to them when you re-install the camwheel to the cam you torque to 35lbs, I know this is wrong now.
I couldn't find a factory manual for sale online but I did stumble across an old post about shop manuals and in it Csaba posted a link to the free info. http://www.njfiats.org/joomla/images/st ... ntents.htm
It may not be specific for my '70 but I figure the torque values on the engine should be applicable.
Thank you for input, I appreciate your help.

To tighten the bolt before I cut an old belt and wrapped it around the wheel and held it in place with a vise-grip chain wrench. I figure I'll try this method again. I will hold the wheel in place while my wife torques it.

THROW THEM ALL AWAY

I have every single shop manual scanned, send me your email address, i'll email one or more to you, and if I don't have them I have the links. This stuff is all in the public domain now, no reason to use a Haynes or Chilton manual. They cause more problems than they are worth.

[70spider]

Thanks Brad, you are the best. Your wiring diagrams have been invaluable. My Spider is a 1970 with the 1438, so if it would not be to much trouble the engine stuff would great.
Thanks again, Pesto