Headlight/wiper issues

[Zaffer]

The post on the back of my '82 did not have anything attached to it either, so I added a 10 gauge wire to it.

As for the ongoing issue, I have currently done the following:
1) Checked for power at the fuse panel, spots 2 and 3 (wipers and headlights respectively). Powers are good.
2) Checked continuity from headlight switch to ignition switch: 0.3 ohms

That's as far as I got before a huge storm hit. My next steps are as follows:

- Check powers at wiper switch and fan switch.
- Check continuity from ignition switch to said switches above
- Check continuity/power from ignition switch to starter
- Check continuity/power from/to charge indicator light in speedometer

Once that happens, and if the problem still isn't resolved, Then I'll have to re-group and delve deeper into the wiring schematics.

[Zaffer]

I decided to drive my car to work (about 32 miles one way) to do some work during lunch. On the way, I start smelling fuel while driving and notice that the fuel gauge is dropping too much for the distance. I ended up "using" 1/2 tank of fuel on the way to work. I get to work and see fuel dripping from the fuel tank area. Also, whenever I made a right hand turn, the LF tire squeals, regardless of speed.

During lunch, check the trunk and noticed that the fuel sending unit isn't bolted down (all nuts are missing). I didn't check this as I just installed a new tank with the sending unit already installed and assumed it was bolted down. bolted that down and there was gas coming from it, start the car, and fuel is now coming from the split return line at the trunk. Replace that and fuel is now leaking from the metal line (rusted out, apparently). Replaced metal line with rubber and tie in place.

Do an alignment and it was over 2 degrees out! Pull toe in, but LF is sitting at 2.5 degrees positive camber and RF is at 0.2 degrees negative camber. This will be corrected once I install my new control arms.

On the way home (now that it's not leaking fuel), squeal is gone and car drives REALLY well. I decided to hit the wipers and...they work, with no charge light on! Try the blower switch and blower works, as do the headlights with no charge light. All I have to say is these cars are weird and I'm a little skeptical that the issue is resolved.

[Zaffer]

Drove my car about a week ago and the headlights/wipers/blower were working fine. Stopped to get gas, started the car back up and the headlights/wipers/blower were no longer working and the charge light would come on if I turned one or more of the aforementioned items on. I checked my charging system and the output voltage is decent, but not great, but it is charging. Here's what else I have done:

-Disconnected the headlight switch, turned on the wipers or blower, charge light on.
-Disconnected the wipers, turned the headlights or blower on, charge light on.
I'm not quite sure where/how to disconnect the blower switch, so haven't been able to try that combo yet.

[seabeelt]

Start with the basics first. Check or have the battery checked for condition and charge. Do the same for the alternator. Eric the car guy on YouTube has a couple of good videos to show how to do this. The only common item I can think of between the circuits is the column switch unit. However the wipers and headlights have different levers/set of contacts in the unit. The alternator should be putting out at least a half volt over battery at rest voltage when the car is under full load (everything on) and at 1500-2000 rpm. If not you have an alternator issue. If you can't get there and the light comes on you have an alternator issue. Shorts in the lights or wipers would blow the fuse first ( unless you have oversized fuses in the box) other option is grounds. Lights have two circuits. One always on for the parking lights - direct from fuse box to headlight switch to parking/side marker lights. Second is through the ignition to the headlight switch to the column switch to the fuse box then to the headlights. Low beams and high beams are fused separate ( fuses 5&6 I think). Wipers have a different fuse.

[Zaffer]

Issue is resolved, at the moment. I replaced the ignition switch and all is working well at the moment, and way better than it ever has when everything was working. I also don't hear the double relay clicking away when I first turn the car on. I got a message from another member on here who was having the exact same issues and he replaced his ignition switch, which fixed it.

I was looking at the wiring diagram again and it makes perfect sense as the only common thing between all of these systems is the ignition switch. I know power is shared, but that wire was good. My next thing in the list before I got the message was to do a voltage drop across the switch and other components. I guess it was shorting internally. I'll see if everything keeps working as I drive it, whenever that'll be

[kmead]

Don't throw your old switch out, you can likely rebuild it by cleaning up the internal contacts. The new ones are generally not as good as the OE ones and fail much sooner. The old ones can be taken apart (drill out the rivets), cleaned and then be reassembled (with screws and nuts to replace the rivets)