Another Valve post

[70spider]

Mission 1/2 accomplished. Got the old cam out and the new cam, seals, and gaskets ready to put back in, waiting on the new shims. I'll post an update when installed, fingers crossed

[131]

Mission 1/2 accomplished. Got the old cam out and the new cam, seals, and gaskets ready to put back in, waiting on the new shims. I'll post an update when installed, fingers crossed

You don't know what shims you need until you've fitted the cam and measured clearances. Put it together with the shims you have, measure, then source what's required.

[70spider]

I know I have to measure the gap after I get it all bolted down. I just thought I could ball park it, seeing how the gaps were so tight before.
Also is there a specific pattern to bolting down the cam tower, like inside to out?

[131]

I know I have to measure the gap after I get it all bolted down. I just thought I could ball park it, seeing how the gaps were so tight before.
Also is there a specific pattern to bolting down the cam tower, like inside to out?

Unless you have the same brand gasket, and it compresses the same, it's going to be a big ballpark. There is a torque spec, I can't remember exactly. At least one cam lobe will be opening a valve as you tighten down the cambox, I usually go inside out, a few turns each until the cambox meets the gasket. If time isn't short, I usually leave it overnight to let the gasket settle before checking/adjusting clearances.

[bradartigue]

Measure with the new shims installed; you'll know they are the sizes stamped on them, vs. the possibility of shims that that nasty camshaft was slapping around for years. Not that I've ever seen a bad shim, but I like new parts.

[70spider]

Unless you have the same brand gasket, and it compresses the same, it's going to be a big ballpark.

I was thinking the same thing, and letting it sit for a spell before taking measurements is a good idea.

...that nasty camshaft was slapping around for years. .....but I like new parts.

According to the documents the PO gave me the motor had an extensive go through 5,000 miles ago, so it puzzles me a bit on how the cam could have gotten so bad so quick and the gap clearances so off on the exhaust side.

[70spider]

Update.
Well I got the cam tower on, a bit of an adventure. First off getting the cam tower off was a mini Hudinni act seeing how the firewall is in the way. Getting it back required me to remove the rear two and front two studs. I also learned it is best to insert the buckets in the tower first then guide the tower over the studs. Once I got it set I put the studs I removed back in, not to bad just a little time consuming. I then had my wife hold the cam wheel in place while I tightened it down, 21ftlbs according to the Haynes manual. While I was there I also installed the Greg Smith headlight relay kit, way easier than I expected plus I didn't have to cut or drill any holes so two thumbs up. As per a forum member I will wait till tomorrow to measure the gaps and I will put the belt back on, never any fun. By the way the belt has a little more than 6,000mi on it, it should be ok to use it? Well thats it for today

[131]

Studs are a pain, bolts are much easier, and yes, buckets in cambox helps reduce stress levels. Get the belt on and tensioned, no chance of cam movement then. If I had a belt on the shelf, I'd probably replace the one you have, if it's a case of waiting for a new belt, I'd inspect and use the old one. Many people subscribe to never reusing a belt, I'm a bit more pragmatic, also never had one fail on me.

[70spider]

I lined everything up and put the belt back on, it is amazing how easy it is after doing it so many times . I then measured my exhaust gaps and they were spot on: #1=0.20, #2=0.20, #3=0.20, #4=0.21. Now all that is left is to do the final check list, and set the static timing. Thanks for the help everyone

[70spider]

Final update, all is good. There is a little ticking noise at idle but a lot less than before, also no hesitation or miss after 4k rpms it was smooth as silk all the way to 6 grand and got there quicker. Now if I can find someone I'll have them time it with a light, but all is good for now. I would have never thought in my wildest dreams I could change out a cam .
Again many thanks for those who have helped.

[70spider]

Well I guess I was a fool to think I was done. There is a small oil seepage in the area of the #1 cylinder. I used a new gasket. What is the best way to seal it? I torqued the the nuts to 21lbs, should I tighten those around the area a little tighter? I hate to think I will have to replace the gasket.

[azruss]

you don't say where the leak is coming from. tower, cover, cover bolts, filler cap?

[70spider]

Between the tower and and head, just above the exhaust manifold around the #1 cylinder. After a 5 mi drive there is a little weep, I hate to tighten the nuts up any more for fear of stripping them. I thought about cleaning up the area real well and using JB Weld and see if that will seal it up. I know that is a "red neck" solution but I finally got the belt on right and the timing pretty dead on, he runs stronger than ever now, and I hate to mess that up.

[chrisfiat]

the gasket looks split , most likley over torqued, it has happened to me many times, time for a new gasket

[70spider]

I replaced the cam tower gasket and the problem of oil seeping on to the exhaust still is happening. So, I went looking at other posts to see if anyone had a similar problem. I came across another person's post on the cam seal leaking so I checked mine, even though I put a new one in when I changed the cam, and it turns out it is leaking and the cause of my problem.
Now is it possible to replace the front cam seal without removing the cam tower? If so what is the procedure?
Thanks, Pesto