Idiot and drive shaft

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zachmac
Posts: 1278
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
Location: Aiken, SC

Idiot and drive shaft

Post by zachmac »

I'm the idiot. In my zeal to clean up and paint the driveshaft and refresh the u-joints, carrier, and guibo while at it, I neglected to mark the assembly before took I out the two u-joint. So now of course I don't know what the relationship between the front shaft weight and the two rear shaft weights previously was AND I don't even know which end of the rear shaft used to be the front. If I knew the second I'd at least have a 50/50/90 shot at correctly orienting the front to rear shafts BUT as I don't even know that I have four possible orientations. So, opinions on options (and no, me not being an idiot is not an option left):

Option 1: take the whole assembly to a shop (about an hour drive each way) that can balance the entire assembly put together

Option 2) Put it together and hope, but I could on theory have to remove it, press out the u-joint and try again up to three times while performing a dangerous up on stand running rear end test each time in between. :(

If I elect for option 2 it seems I would start by assuming I want the bigger of the weights on the rear shaft toward the differential as that is clearly the most out of round shaft location and that would put it nearest the strongest resistance to wobble.

Does anyone know if this is really even an issue? What I mean is was the assembly originally balanced together or was each shaft just balanced individually? If it is the latter then the orientation of the two shouldn't matter much as the u-joints are pretty much self centering given that they use the circ clips all around.
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
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azruss
Posts: 3659
Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by azruss »

All my long driveshafts have the counterweight toward the front of the car. I have driven some spiders with a lot of driveline vibration and my conclusion was it was assembled 180 out. If it were me, i would take my best guess and test drive it. You've got a 50-50 chance of being right. You probably don't even have to test drive it but can run the car on stands.
zachmac
Posts: 1278
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
Location: Aiken, SC

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by zachmac »

azruss wrote:All my long driveshafts have the counterweight toward the front of the car. I have driven some spiders with a lot of driveline vibration and my conclusion was it was assembled 180 out. If it were me, i would take my best guess and test drive it. You've got a 50-50 chance of being right. You probably don't even have to test drive it but can run the car on stands.
But, my long shaft has a weight on each end. That means I don't know which is the front or back AND that means there are four possible orientations. 50/50/90 goes to 25/75/95. :(
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
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spidernut
Posts: 1906
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:20 am
Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider Automatic
Location: Lincoln, CA

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by spidernut »

I did this once, but caught myself before cleaning up and repainting everything. I was able to match up the amount of the PVC undercoating to the drive shaft segments since the undercoating was sprayed after assembly of the cars.

You could take it to a shop and have it balanced to be safe. I'm personally not a fan of trial and error methods.
John G.
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)
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azruss
Posts: 3659
Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by azruss »

It seems to me, from a manufacturing perspective, that it would be far more cost effective to balance each shaft individually rather than the whole assembly. So this may not be as big a deal as you think.
zachmac
Posts: 1278
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
Location: Aiken, SC

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by zachmac »

azruss wrote:It seems to me, from a manufacturing perspective, that it would be far more cost effective to balance each shaft individually rather than the whole assembly. So this may not be as big a deal as you think.
I would THINK so as well, but does anyone KNOW? I guess I could just go have each shaft balanced / checked individually as that is doable much closer to home and cheaper.
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
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hayesbd
Posts: 171
Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:20 pm
Your car is a: 1973 Spider
Location: Newark, Ohio, USA

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by hayesbd »

The Fiat shop manual states that you should mark positions prior to disassembly to maintain the balance, so it looks like these were balanced as a complete assembly. It also states that there are assembly marks on the forward parts, so perhaps there are also some match marks on the rear segment as well? I'd look for some punched dots or something similar.

Good luck,
Brian
Current: 1973 124 Spider
Previous: 1961 600D, 1970 850 Racer, 1973 124 Special, 1974 124 Special TC
chrisfiat
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:52 pm
Your car is a: 1976 124

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by chrisfiat »

assemble it and take it to the balance shop, this is the least stressful , and best option at this point, and you will have a known good driveshaft
DieselSpider
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by DieselSpider »

If you cant find any punch or scribe marks from a previous service on the shaft then I agree its time to take it to a drive shaft shop to have it assembled and balanced as an assembly. Its not worth the potential for damage to the transmission output bearing/seal, rear axle pinion bearing/seal or carrier bearing along with the potential for collateral damage to the bottom of the vehicle.
zachmac
Posts: 1278
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
Location: Aiken, SC

Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by zachmac »

chrisfiat wrote:assemble it and take it to the balance shop, this is the least stressful , and best option at this point, and you will have a known good driveshaft
Pretty much the conclusion I've come to as well. :D
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
htchevyii
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Your car is a: 1982 Spider hers 1972 Spider his
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Re: Idiot and drive shaft

Post by htchevyii »

I forgot to mark mine and it vibrated so bad that it was undrivable. Neither of the driveshaft shops in my area had the proper adapter to balance it. I bought a used one for $40 on a Ebay and started over.
Trey
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1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
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