Crossmember question.

[njoconnor]

I was finishing up the right side control arm removal, and noting the presence of several shims on each crossmember bolt, was realigning them correctly for a picture (digital cameras....substitute memory!). As I was putting shims and nut back on the rearmost bolt on the right side, the bolt moved *in* toward the center of the car. Checked the other three, and all of them were solid. Investigation with a light shows a correct sized hex headed bolt, whose head I can feel up behind the back side of the crossmember.

I dread asking this, but does this warrant replacing the crossmember? The only front end issues were brake pulling, due I've since found to a warped right front rotor. Alignment has been good, tire wear normal, no issues turning or braking. The old lower control arm was quite solid, and there was no play at all. All of the other crossmember bolts are solid (if a tad rusty; cleaning is on the sched), and the moving bolt has good clean threads. I suspect one of the PO's stripped or broke the bolt replacing control arms (the old ball joints are bolted in, not riveted), and this was the fix. My mechanic and I specifically searched for cracks, seams, or disturbances in the paint or metal, finding none. Thoughts and recommendations appreciated.

If nothing else, I'm learning just about every turn of a wrench!

Neil

[azruss]

It sounds like the original bolt in the crossmember was replaced. Make sure the thread size and pitch is the same as the other three. Also inspect the crossmember in that area for stress cracks. Usually when this replacement is done, the head of the new bolt is welded to the crossmember. Look to see if there is a broken tack weld on the head. I'm not sure that there would be a problem if it wasn't welded as long as you can tighten the a-arm nut.

[njoconnor]

Thanks! Back under there this evening with a better light.

It was torqued down to spec when I took it off, so I suspect it can be retorqued. Planning to purchase new nuts in any case.

Neil

[temason]

As I recall the driver's side lower rear bolt did the same on my car during the rebuild. I assume it was factory tack weld that had broken free. The good news was that there is room behind the head for a large flat screwdriver. This allowed me to push the bolt head slightly. With that pressure it was unable to turn allowing me to properly torque the nut. I will get it welded when I can take it to a shop