Suspension suggestions

[Mark_vaughn]

you could replace the control arms, with new bushed ones for little extra money!!!. And dont just think the lower ball joints are the issue, my uppers were bad!!!

I will second that!! I saved a few bucks by removing and installing new bushings in the A-arms. NOT WORTH IT!! Spend the money and have a vendor install everything for you, ball joints and all. Saves alot of headache and general ache. And you know you have everything installed correctly on a solid A-arm.

Mark

[mbouse]

certainly gets you up and going quicker, and with the minimal amount of grunt effort on your own.

you still gottal collapse those springs with the proper tools however.

[ITCBITC]

certainly gets you up and going quicker, and with the minimal amount of grunt effort on your own.

you still gottal collapse those springs with the proper tools however.

Hello, Im getting ready to replace the A ARMS complete w/ ball joints and add perf. springs. What is this "proper tool"for collapsing the springs. It seems I NEVER have the proper tool for ANYTHING I do . I heard it would make everything so much easier with the right tool. Also are all these perf. springs from various vendors the same? I see a little difference in price but im trying to spread my money all around to BAYLESS, IAP, VICKS. Want all of them to stay in business for many years.

[pope]

Spring collapsers are usually for rent at most auto parts stores. I rented them for a strut change and they came in a carrying case, thats how professional these were. The chain stores even rent them for free! Cant get a better deal than that. Usually they put a charge on your credit card and when you bring the tool back, they credit you your money back. I have a couple of stores near me that rent everything you would ever need from pullers to greasers to engine analyzers.

[radiopilot]

This past weekend I tried to install rear shocks and front control arm bushings... but I could not for the life of me get the rear springs collapsed enough to withdraw the shocks out, I followed the link on the Fiat Restoration page on removal of the shocks, tried several ways collapsing the spring (with spring collapser) but no luck... I installed new pan rods, they were easy, also the front shocks, but the pivot arm nut was too frozen to release and I did not want to break it so the bushings did not get installed.

Anybody have similar problems on getting the rear shocks out. Can I drop the front end without collapsing the spring? How hard would it be to install again? I may have to visit the auto store to get small spring collapsers for the front springs as they are the smaller collapser, I bought the larger one.


Nick

[danaspider]

Radio, I just replaced all of the springs and shocks on my 79. The rears were the easiest. I was able to use an external set of compressors that I picked up at Harbor Freight for like $15. By compressing the springs, maybe 50% and letting the rear axel hang all the way down they came out with little problem. So how far are you compressing them?

On the front was a little trickier. I got the compressor that is internal to the shock. Was going to rent from Shucks auto, but they sold me the kit for $75. Figured will use them again on one of the cars. I made a small mod to the compressor, added a piece of pipe to change the length of the screw itself. No real problem getting them out. Lots of compression on original springs. Used a floor jack below the a-arm to support and control the lowering of the suspension, after compressing. As well as undoing the upper a-arm. I would not recomend trying this without compressing some!!

Installing the new lowered springs was a dream on front and back.

By you will need to remove the tie rods from the front lower a-arm to get max deflection.

Hope this helps a bit.

Let us know

[So Cal Mark]

on the rear I always lower the axle assy and never compress the springs at all

[radiopilot]

OK fellows, after reading what you've described, I must be doing something wrong, I bought the Harbor Tools spring compressor ($15) also and used it but I believe the problem results from the the jack on the other side which limits the
axle travel (I used two jack lifts to hold both sides of the axle then released the side I was working on but the other jack
still held the axle so it limited it's travel).

I will try again this time jack the car up and use the jacks on the body support then lower the complete axle as Mark suggested and the springs should come off.

This should have been simple... but it's my first time... learners curve!

Thanks.

Nick

[So Cal Mark]

everything is easy when you know how to do it. Be careful with the center brake hose if you lower the axle assy

[htchevyii]

I just got done doing my front suspension & didn't use a spring compressor at all. I put a chain around the spring & l.c.a. just in case to keep it contained, Supported the L.c.a. with a jack, then unbolted the shock and u.c.a. and slowely lowered the floor jack until the spring was free. Install was reverse of removal.

Vick Autosports sells DELRIN (similar to poly) bushing kits for the control arms: $96.50 for a set p/n 63-5324
I didn't find them until after I allready bought rubber ones though.

[radiopilot]

htchevyii, very nice work, I've been following your progress on your wife's spider and I have to say I am very impressed by your meticulous attention to detail, I really like the color coordination on the suspension parts, she will be proud to show off your handy work.

If and when I get the springs/control arms off the car, I'd also would like to paint the suspension parts too if time permits.

Yes I now know I was doing something wrong with the spring removal by keeping a jack on the axle, hopefully I find time next weekend to try it again. Exhausted driving over 900 miles picking up another spider to my collection, I don't have the strength this week to do anything other than rest... gosh... I didn't know owning spider can be so time consuming and expensive!

Nick

[htchevyii]

You're tellin' me! I bought this one as a rust free running & driving car thinking I'd just tinker with it a bit & 8 mos. later I've driven it 30 miles & spent the rest of the time working on it & spending money on it! It's been fun though, good luck with yours.

[mdrburchette]

Geez, I wish I never saw your pics. I'm getting ready to redo the front suspension on my 71 and now I'm going to have to sandblast and paint all the parts....just because of you! Good job, btw!

[pope]

On painting those under carriage parts, is there a paint that is bullet-proof! 2-part epoxy or poly? What do you usually use for this? Do you have to prime before you paint?
Powder coating might be best. Let hear what you use.

[htchevyii]

I used Eastwood chassis black & spray grey for most of it. I'd like to get a powder coating set up, but I'm out of room (for the oven) & I'm not gonna try to get away with using the one in the kitchen. I also used Eastwoods stainless exhaust manifold paint & so far it's holding up well.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/prod ... ctID=14351
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT