Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm
- 4uall
- Posts: 4145
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:09 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 Fiat Pininfarina Spider 2000 F.I.
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm
Jay
Fiona
1980 FI 2000 Spider
ITZEBTZE
https://goo.gl/photos/eNKaX7hrXhBu9fmp6
FINN (FN-2187)
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport
MYTHERPY
Fiona
1980 FI 2000 Spider
ITZEBTZE
https://goo.gl/photos/eNKaX7hrXhBu9fmp6
FINN (FN-2187)
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport
MYTHERPY
- Broadsword
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:17 am
- Your car is a: 1970 124 Spider
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm
LOL, a bit more to do before I start celebrating!
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- Posts: 366
- Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
Re: Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm
This is the tool I use and it works great, SPC Performance 37985 4-Way Ball Joint Separator. If you run into a really tight taper, add a little heat with a propane torch, normally 40 sec. or less will do it.
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- Posts: 985
- Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:08 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 fiat 124bc
- Location: Belgrade, Serbia, eastern Europe
Re: Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm
do not hit wih hammers, direcly or tru pickle fork if you're removing stuck tie rod end from pitman's arm attched to steering box or idler. you will destroy bearings/bushings in much more expensive steering unit. apply heat to pitman's arm, not tie rod end
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- Posts: 130
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 7:18 am
- Your car is a: 1975 spider
Re: Extracting ball joint from Pitman arm
+1
"I too have use the harbor freight tool.. I also recommend have the nut on (unlike the picture above), to prevent things from flying when they eventually do separate.."
And they will fly, always stand to the side. But if you leave the nut on as previously suggested all they will do is "pop" when they release.
A little heat from the torch, a whack with the hammer and it's all good.
Just did the upper and lower ball joints on the control arms (both sides) with the above technique (plus the HF tool) and worked like a charm.
Jeff
"I too have use the harbor freight tool.. I also recommend have the nut on (unlike the picture above), to prevent things from flying when they eventually do separate.."
And they will fly, always stand to the side. But if you leave the nut on as previously suggested all they will do is "pop" when they release.
A little heat from the torch, a whack with the hammer and it's all good.
Just did the upper and lower ball joints on the control arms (both sides) with the above technique (plus the HF tool) and worked like a charm.
Jeff