Control arms - rebuild or replace

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Tue Apr 14, 2015 6:27 pm

How much should I compress the springs? Uncompressed they are about 13". I figure get them down to about 11", align the ends of the springs so they will sit properly on the lower control arm and the mount piece on top, gets the back ends of the springs to sit on the top and bottom control arm, and then move the lower control arm up with the help of a jack under the lower ball joint until the upper control arm bolt lines up. Sound about right?

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:30 am

This is how much mine was compressed when I took it off (and reinstalled it too).

4uall · Post by **4uall** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:10 am

same

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:33 pm

Springs installed. Don't want to do that again! This spacer (bought at Home Depot) made all the difference.

It ensured that the bolt didn't extend too far and hit the top of the shock tower. Here's the result.

How perfect does the end of the spring have to be near the lip of the lower control arm? I have about a 1/4" space from the end of the spring to the lip (on the proper side). Is this ok? With use does the spring naturally shift a bit and will move to the stop?

Also after everything was installed I found moving the knuckle by hand was kind of tough. It moved but required a bit of force. Is this normal?

Next up the shocks. Then the brake components.

And... GO SENS GO... 1st hockey playoff game tonight against Montreal Canadians

vandor · Post by **vandor** » Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:13 am

> I have about a 1/4" space from the end of the spring to the lip (on the proper side). Is this ok?

It should be fine.

>With use does the spring naturally shift a bit and will move to the stop?

I hope not

>Also after everything was installed I found moving the knuckle by hand was kind of tough.

Try it with the suspension at regular height, not it's drooping so the balljoints are likely toward the end of their travel. However new BJs will have definite resistance to turning.

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:34 pm

Shocks installed no problem. The next step according to this guide...

http://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/sp ... l_Arms.htm

... is to install the sway bar. I'm only replacing the outer bushings so thought I could just slide the bushing on and tighten the bracket over it. Wasn't so easy. Tough to get the bracket to go on over the bushing to tighten the nuts. I've read C-clamps could help. Do I use 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom part of the bracket and tighten evenly. Or just 1 in the middle?

bobplyler · Post by **bobplyler** » Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:02 pm

rjkoop wrote: Do I use 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom part of the bracket and tighten evenly. Or just 1 in the middle?

I bolt up the bottom part, then use a clamp to bring the top part in.

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 6:52 am

bobplyler wrote:
rjkoop wrote: Do I use 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom part of the bracket and tighten evenly. Or just 1 in the middle?
I bolt up the bottom part, then use a clamp to bring the top part in.

K. I'll try that. Right now, because I'm redoing the suspension, the car is on jack stands and the suspension hanging. Would it help to jack up the suspension to relieve some tension on the sway bar?

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:49 pm

Those sway bar outer bushings are a pain. Not sure if my brackets are bent. Here's a few pics.

Looks to me like the long part of the bracket should go on the top, the shorter part on the bottom, and the bottom part of the bushing must sit on the lip of the control arm. Is that correct? It seems impossible to fit. I even tried using a C-clamp but I could get the bolts to align top and bottom. Is there a trick to this?

spider2081 · Post by **spider2081** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:26 pm

I'm pretty sure you have the metal retainer for the sway bar busing upside down. The little step in the bracket is to clear the control arm lip. Also I think they are side specific. So if when you turn it upside down the bolts don't align it is for the other side.

vandor · Post by **vandor** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:31 pm

Yes, the bracket is upside down. To install put a little lube on the outer edge of the bushing, start the bottom nut first, the use channel locks to bring the top part of the bracket close to the mount on the a-arm.

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:03 pm

I knew something wasn't right. Seems obvious once you point it out (doh!). Thanks guys. I'll try tomorrow.

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 7:56 am

You may have the bushing upside down too as the chamfered edge appears larger on top which would help ease the transition over the lip of the control arm if it faced the bottom.

rjkoop · Post by **rjkoop** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 10:38 am

You guys rocks. Thanks.

vandor · Post by **vandor** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:07 am

DieselSpider wrote:You may have the bushing upside down too as the chamfered edge appears larger on top which would help ease the transition over the lip of the control arm if it faced the bottom.

The bushings are symmetrical.

Control arms - rebuild or replace

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Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace

Re: Control arms - rebuild or replace