Update,and any suggestions?

[ga.spyder]

I havent checked in here,or been able to work on my car due to personal and family issues.And,of course,Winter! I had the head off my 82,and Beek did a reconditioning on it(Thanks,again).I recently got it put back together and the static timing went perfect.Thanks to all for the advice on my aux shaft with the jury rigged pulley.The timing was a good bit retarded,but I now have it running like a scalded dog.
My only issue now seems to be with the cooling system.This car has never run more than a touch above the 190 mark,and then the fan kicks in.Today,I took my first ride past the driveway.After about 3 miles I saw the needle creeping,so I headed back home.It went to probably 210 and never higher.In the garage,I found a leak at the small hose to the t'stat.It seemed very swollen.My top hoses were quite hot,but the lower rad hose was definitely cooler.Also,my fan didnt kick in until the upper reaches of the temp guage.Water was boiling in the recovery bottle after shut down.
Are these classic symptoms of air in the system?I plan to check all the hose for tightness ,and then refill and bleed the system as I dont have anything but plain water in there.Could it be the t'stat itself.Just looking for some suggestions,as I am itching to take a long ride thru the mountains.Thanks for any feedback

[azruss]

sounds like the stat isnt opening. This can be from air trapped below the stat, the stat being old and sticky. Remove the stat and push the valve open and closed. Most develop a drag on the valve stem from gunk. give it a good clean so the valve moves freely. bench test by putting it in a cup of boiling water. I drilled an 1/8" hole in my valve to give the trapped air someplace to go. Even with air, it should eventually open once heat gets to the bottom of the stat. Once it opens the air will move through the system. The mini filler in the heater hose is the ticket.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks azruss... I also found another issue.The water leak is below the stat,from the water pipe.I have had it leaking there before,on this re-assembly.I took it loose last week,reseated the gasket,and used some water pump gasket sealer.So... this morning I try to tighten it a bit and,you guessed it,snapped the stud from my new water pump!!! I may try to get the stud out and use a bolt,or just grab another pump.I am going to see if AR offers a new water pipe,as this on seems a bit brittle to me,and just isnt seating right.Grrrrrr....

[ga.spyder]

Next question. Does anyone have a good heater pipe left from a rebuild? It is expensive from the vendors!Next cal,John Erskine!!!

[Kevin1]

Craig,
I have one from an '80 available. Sent a pm with contact info, can send it your way Monday from work. If you want it send a shipping address and it will be on its way.
Kevin

[ga.spyder]

First off,thanks for all the kind offers for the heater pipe.The people here are the best!! I got in touch of John Erskine(I cant remember his user name here),and he has a heater pipe headed my way.I removed the water pump and pipe,and the pipe definitely has a bit of a cupped end and I believe that is why I cant get a good seal.The broken stud has been removed from the water pump,and will be replaced.I also ordered a new thermostat from AR,as that is the only part in my cooling system that has never been replaced.I am going to put the heater hose fill/bleed into my top heater hose.I hope to have her back on the road next weekend!!!
These last few months are the first time my car has been out of action,in the time I have owned it.She was in need of some preventative maint.,but was running fine when I elected to pull her off the road.I am ready for a nice long drive!

[aj81spider]

If it's not cupped too badly you can tack some sandpaper down to a flat surface and make the surface level. I had to do that on one I got new from a vendor as it was not quite level.

I used the table on my table saw as the flat surface and progressively finer grades of sandpaper to get a fairly smooth surface.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks AJ.Mine is visibly cupped,and I plan to try and get it right.I have another one on the way,and will check it also.The best one goes in!My original is a little brittle feeling,so I hope the replacement will be much better.

[azruss]

none of them are flat as the welding warps them. If they are really bad, you can't get them to seal or you bust of the studs trying. you can use a flat file as well as the method above to file the warp out.

[ga.spyder]

That is exactly what happened,azruss.I couldnt get a seal,and thought I would tighten it a tiny bit more.... I should have realized early on that it wasnt going to make a seal,rather than trying to seal it with RTV and over-tightening.The good news is she is all back together and running great.I will get this issue sorted out quickly.