Any way after replacing carb ( all bench adjustments attempted as indicated except for the choke shaft that requires special tool to screw into opposite end of carb. I was able to use equivalent size drill bits to the metric measurements. Either way choke worked great and started right up but at slow idle it surged 300-050 rpms. Checked timing and the surging caused timing to advance from 10 TDC to 15-20 probably. Now I am in desperate need of the Fuel/Air mixture screw. When I removed the needle valve screw, the O ring came apart. Tried to match one from kit that I did not use. Even some of the old ones I replaced. So i tried this very tiny O ring and replaced the screw. I am thinking that the O ring did not settle in right. Maybe air coming in by the needle valve? Because on car trying to adjust slow speed with speed screw and fuel/air screw, it only resulted in very minor change. Closing and backing off from 1 full turn to 3 1/2 turns did not change anything, still surging. Yes, screwed all the way in stalled motor. 3 1/2 turns out only made it almost stall again.Now as a side note of "O Crap", I had checked radiator fluid level while carb off, just for no reason other than doing it. When I replaced the radiator cap, I forgot to close the pressure relief lever on top. Well, about 5 minutes into cussin and adjustin, my heater valve blew and looked like Atom Bomb went off with the mushroom cloud of steam. Pushed the heat adjustment cable to cool instead of heat and it finally became a drip. (Since I drive it often and in Idaho it gets cold so heater was on and working normal)..... Of course flooded passenger side. Just spent $100.00 getting replacement valve, gasket, O ring, new cables and other assorted sundries since it will have console off . Thank goodness my PTSD meds are good and I focused out of the red haze I was going into that would of resulted in inflicting more damage to car. Yay!
Guys/gals, any info on replacing screw fuel/air or other plans, will be greatly appreciated.
Texsardo
