Engine Ceased?

ICESKATER1611 · Post by **ICESKATER1611** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 4:13 pm

Hello...I have attempted to pour marvles Mystery oil in all cylinders and when i did all oil dissapeared except the third cylinder. i can still see oil on top.

If my engine is ceased is my only option to rebuild the engine?

124JOE · Post by **124JOE** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 4:50 pm

are you or do you know a good mechanic?

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 5:49 pm

ICESKATER1611 wrote:Hello...I have attempted to pour marvles Mystery oil in all cylinders and when i did all oil dissapeared except the third cylinder. i can still see oil on top.

If my engine is ceased is my only option to rebuild the engine?

You mean "seized" - and if it is indeed seized then you need to take it apart.

But hey you're not there yet.

Marvel Mystery Oil isn't very good for engines in the long run, so let's stop using it for now. If you put the car in 5th gear and remove the spark plugs and turn off the hand brake can you push it (forward only, don't go backwards) and turn the motor? If so then it isn't seized. If it turns some and then stops then you have a misaligned auxiliary shaft, easy enough to fix.

Anyway, report back on the above, does it move when pushed by hand, in fifth gear, with the plugs out and the brake off?

vandor · Post by **vandor** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:56 pm

FWIW, twice I've seen Fiat engines that sat for a long time and rust formed on the cylinders under the pistons. One could turn the engine half a turn, and then it would stop. Going the other way it would do the same thing.

Once it's locked up or seized I don't think it's worth trying to free it up, as the cylinder walls will be in such poor shape that it won't run very well. At that point it needs to be rebuilt.

donm · Post by **donm** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:21 pm

Sounds likd "ceased" is the correct word.

courtenay · Post by **courtenay** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:08 pm

donm wrote:Sounds likd "ceased" is the correct word.

"Deceased" might be even more appropriate.

spider2081 · Post by **spider2081** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:25 pm

I purchased a 1980 FI in 2008 with 70,000 miles and a frozen engine. The car would not turn over with the starter or a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the crankshaft nut. I removed the plugs and put automatic transmission fluid in the cylinders. Let it sit for two weeks, put the car in 5th gear and hand pushed the car. It popped free. Flushed the fuel system, changed the oil, installed plugs and it started. Then changed the timing belt etc.
We have driven the car about 7000 miles now. It does burn about a quart of oil every 1500 miles otherwise runs well. I know we were lucky.

ICESKATER1611 · Post by **ICESKATER1611** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:24 pm

I will give the push a try...I was told it ran prior to sitting for some time. I'll report back tomorrow!!!

Hopefully "Deceased" is not the verdict here!!

ICESKATER1611 · Post by **ICESKATER1611** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:01 am

Ok so i attempted to give it a push however felt i needed a little more man power. gonna call for back up either tonight or this weekend see if i can get some help.

TimpanogosSlim · Post by **TimpanogosSlim** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:28 am

A lot of farm tractors have been brought back to life by filling seized cylinders with automatic transmission fluid and letting them sit over-night before turning over the engine manually with a breaker bar on the crank bolt.

The results aren't generally what you'd call ideal, though.

You'll have to immediately change the oil once you get it un-stuck, and you'll want to change it again in about 10 miles.

And it'll still probably 'need' to be rebuilt, if you want it to run really well.

ICESKATER1611 · Post by **ICESKATER1611** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:19 pm

OK so i had a neighbor come over and we attempted a push which posed unsuccessful. We ended up taking the cap over the Cranckshaft to attempt to manually move the engine.

Question - When we took that cap off (held on by 6 bolts) a bunch of oil came with it. My question is 1) we think it is like a 1 1/4 inch bolt for the crankshaft, is that correct? 2) Should oil be inside that cap or do i have an oil leak somewhere?

My neighbor and i are planning on pulling the engine anyway for a rebuild but i didn't know if we have a leak or if oil should have came out of there.

aaalbedo · Post by **aaalbedo** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:38 pm

Pretty sure it's 1-1/2" / 38 mm. I just tried my 1-1/4 socket and it's too small. 1-1/2 socket is too tall to fit and test with the rad in, but it's the only one I have bigger than 1-1/4.

Lw

dmwhiteoak · Post by **dmwhiteoak** » Sun Mar 08, 2015 1:56 am

It is accually a metric nut but a 1 1/2 socket will fit nice and snug.

ICESKATER1611 · Post by **ICESKATER1611** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:44 pm

Thanks for the advice. I am going to get a 1 1/2 inch and give it a turn, see what happens.

As for the oil, does someone know when we took that cap off if oil should have spilled out (as it happend)? just wondering if there is a leak or if oil should make it in there...

ICESKATER1611 · Post by **ICESKATER1611** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 1:28 pm

just got the engine loose last night! turns on it's own with the starter!

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