Adjustable Cam Gears

[RRoller123]

The question(s) I have is, how do you go about dialing in the adjustable cams? I know nothing about where to start or the sequence of steps to take. When do you know that they are optimized? How do you do it without dynamometer time? Any target beginning angles, etc? Without a plan I would be just blindly adjusting and would likely muck it all up.

Is there a reasonable target of some many degrees advance or retard of each to get an expected/predictable result? Then it would be reasonable to undergo the expense and time of installing them.

Pete

[So Cal Mark]

you need a degree wheel to attach to the engine and the cam specs recommended by the cam mfg, otherwise it would be trial and error

[lanciahf]

Guy Croft did a great write up on this on his forum, its what I used when I timed my cams.

See the following link.

http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?t=213

The question(s) I have is, how do you go about dialing in the adjustable cams? I know nothing about where to start or the sequence of steps to take. When do you know that they are optimized? How do you do it without dynamometer time? Any target beginning angles, etc? Without a plan I would be just blindly adjusting and would likely muck it all up.

Is there a reasonable target of some many degrees advance or retard of each to get an expected/predictable result? Then it would be reasonable to undergo the expense and time of installing them.

Pete

[RRoller123]

Mark, do you offer the degree wheel and the cam specs (obviously I assume) for your 274 street cams?

[RRoller123]

Thanks, Lanciahf, I will check that out!

[So Cal Mark]

I'm working on degree wheels. We include specs with all of the cams we sell

[So Cal Mark]

Cam gears have been shipped, so I expect them in a day or two. I now have degree wheels available for $28 along with instructions on how to degree a cam

[narfire]

Mark, that is one thing worth spending the 25% premium from Cdn $$$. I'll call and put an order in.
Chris

[ORFORD2004]

I'm not Guy Croft but that's the way I did it:

I don't see the need for timing marks on the pulley. For timing my cams i have to find the lobe center of the cam and be shure that the crank was at 110 degrees. you need a dial indicator and a degree Wheel for that job.

The way i did it is you find the real TDC. The way to do it is to use the infamous screwdriver method to find TDC.
Then you install your degree wheel on the flywheel and put a piece of wire attach to the engine to 0 degree.

Next is to put the dial indicator in the plug hole. Not much of steel in that area for my magnetic base so i made a steel bracket that use the valve cover bolts to old steady. So you install your dial indicator so you have some pressure on the dial. Set to 0 and turn the crank clockwwise. When you read let's say .002, note the number on the degree Wheel. Continue turning and when you are .002 before the 0 you set, note the number on the degree Wheel. For example if you read 355 and 3. You have to move your pointer 1 degree up to 4 so the reading will be 356 and 4. Equal from the zero. From now the pointer or the degree wheel can't move. Retest to be shure. Now you have your true TDC.

Now you have to find the lobe center of the cam. For that you have to install the dial indicator 90 degrees from the valve tappet and clear the lobe rotation. The trick i found, sorry for the purist was to use electric tape and a piece of steel wire at the end of my dial indicator because my needle was to big to fit on the side of the cam and clearing the lobe. When there is full pressure to the tappet, you install your dial indicator whit some pressure on it. Set to 0 and turn the crank clockwise. when the valve start closing let's say .002, note the number on the degree Wheel. Continue turning and when the valve is .002 before the 0 you set, note the number on the degree Wheel. For example if you read 84 and 134, you take 134-84=50/2=25. So 25+84=109. Your lobe center is at 109 degree and you want 110. If you move to 85 you will read 135 also. So 135-85=50/2=25. So 85+25=110. So you set your degree wheel to 85 degree and using the adjustable pulley turn back the dial indicator to .002 when the crank is at 85 degree. Retest and you should read 85 and 135. Now your lobe center is at 110 degree.
Same thing for the other side.

That's the way i did it.

[So Cal Mark]

cam gears have arrived and are in stock; we have them in black and a limited number in red.

[fiat218]

those look awesome

[michaelj]

Mark, when do these make sense? I did a lot of work to my engine and i dont really think i got all that much more out of it. I did your stage 1 cams, lightened flywheel, bigger valves, domed pistons, a little port matching, and not much happened really. Maybe i am too busy comparing it to my big block chevy, but I cannot imagine i am over 90hp. I bought your EMPI carb, and that thing is great for reliability. But I am thinking i might need more carb. But before i do that, i want to make sure the engine is at its peak for what it is. Your thoughts?

Oh, this is a street driver. Nothing more. But i like a good growl.

Mike

[narfire]

My two-bits....I see you have some of Mark's cams. My recommendation, as I did much the same as you, is to get a set a adjustable cam wheels and have the engine degree'd in properly. I noticed a bit of an improvement in power but after installation of a set of adjustable cam wheels and had a fellow degree the engine , it seemed like a new engine. The car really pulled and had a lot more snap to it.
Chris

[So Cal Mark]

the street cams are really designed to work straight up, but if your head or block has been resurfaced then stock cam timing is off. Your set up should produce about 125hp, we've done lots of engines with similar setups and they run like scared rabbits

[70spider]

I noticed from the pics that only one of the wheels have a lip. I am building a 1608, so my question is do I need both wheels to have the lip?