American cars made in the US in the 70's were, with a few rare exceptions, junk anyway.bradartigue wrote:
No it's just a 1970s car. My parents have this weird memory of old cars being simple and therefore simple was reliable. But do you remember how many 70s cars were on the side of the road, or leaked something, even when new? Or they were hard to start or lumpy or whatever.
Cold Starting
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- Posts: 379
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:41 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Fiat 124 Spider
Re: Cold Starting
- 124JOE
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
- Location: SO. WI
Re: Cold Starting
ouch George
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
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- Patron 2018
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 7:58 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider
- Location: Montreal Canada
Re: Cold Starting
GM s were great cars in the 70s. Those big rear wheel drives were bullet proof but after 10 years they would turn to dust with our hard winters. There were many of those cars around here driving around with no lower rear fenders and see-thru trunk compartments. I even remember no matter what brand of GM it was if it was on the road long enough the frames would break behind the rear wheel arches causing the bumpers to wave at the drivers behind. Mechanics, however still strong as a bullet.GeorgeT wrote:American cars made in the US in the 70's were, with a few rare exceptions, junk anyway.bradartigue wrote:
No it's just a 1970s car. My parents have this weird memory of old cars being simple and therefore simple was reliable. But do you remember how many 70s cars were on the side of the road, or leaked something, even when new? Or they were hard to start or lumpy or whatever.
In the 80s GM however were never capable of grasping the front wheel drives. The trend lasted many, many years, crappily designed front ends and suspensions. Chrysler's Iacocca cars and Ford had a related fate as well.
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- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:49 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider 2000
- Location: St. Paul, MN
Re: Cold Starting
You're trying to hurt me, aren't you? Someday, I'll figure out why my car needs to crank for 5 minutes in temps under 50 F!RRoller123 wrote:Just thought I would pass this along, because I am so impressed with the 35 year old FI system in my Spider: I need to move the Spider out of the garage in order to have any room at all to do woodworking, so it goes out in the morning, sometimes stays out overnight (covered) if there is no precipitation forecast, etc. Well the last week or two it has been brutally cold, and the car has started as easily as it ever does in the height of the Summer. -5F this morning and it started right up instantly. I have Mark's disty replacement system in there, otherwise the FI is stock. -5F is the coldest so far, but it has started with the same ease many times around zero or a little below. Good old girl.
Bryan
burlybryan
'82 Spider 2000 FI
'12 500 Sport (Verde Oliva) - wife's daily driver - when it's not being fixed at the dealer...
'82 Spider 2000 FI
'12 500 Sport (Verde Oliva) - wife's daily driver - when it's not being fixed at the dealer...
- 124JOE
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
- Location: SO. WI
Re: Cold Starting
THE fuel backs down the line
try pumping the peadal when starting
try pumping the peadal when starting
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
- bradartigue
- Posts: 2183
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: Cold Starting
My mother had a diesel Cadillac that ran for a few hundred thousand miles. It was, apparently, the only one. Most people's experience with the GM 350 Diesel Conversion was they lasted about 17 miles. But we had plenty of Oldsmobiles that didn't have issues, and a Ford Econoline love machine with a CB. It was awesome.GeorgeT wrote:GM s were great cars in the 70s.
1970 124 Spider
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
- srwilson
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 124 Fiat Spider 2000
- Location: Lexington, KY
Re: Cold Starting
If given an option would you swap out a carbureted system for a FI system?
I am comtemplating making this swap on my 79. My current setup is a 1800 intake and a 34ADF.
I'm just not sure if I am capable of doing the work and I really can't find a step by step guide.
Any help or thoughts?
I am comtemplating making this swap on my 79. My current setup is a 1800 intake and a 34ADF.
I'm just not sure if I am capable of doing the work and I really can't find a step by step guide.
Any help or thoughts?
-Steve
1979 Black Fiat Spider
2006 Black Chevy Silverado Crew Cab
1979 Black Fiat Spider
2006 Black Chevy Silverado Crew Cab
Re: Cold Starting
Pete, that guy was from Maine! I know!! I met 6 of them!! HahaRRoller123 wrote:This is for 76was124:
The old Vermonter was asked: "Have you lived here your whole life?"
To which he replied: "..... not yet."
- divace73
- Posts: 1380
- Joined: Sun Oct 17, 2010 5:59 am
- Your car is a: 1980 Fiat 124 Spider Silver
- Location: Sydney, Australia
Re: Cold Starting
this conundrum always get asked, if it's working well on carb, I'd leave it, if it came out with FI and works well, I'd leave itsrwilson wrote:If given an option would you swap out a carbureted system for a FI system?
I am comtemplating making this swap on my 79. My current setup is a 1800 intake and a 34ADF.
I'm just not sure if I am capable of doing the work and I really can't find a step by step guide.
Any help or thoughts?
If it is going to be a daily driver then I may consider converting, it's not that simple but not that difficult either. Just remember anything that is changed from stock always becomes a bigger tasks than first assumed.
Here is a simple example I recently experienced. I changed my 2L US motor to an AUS 2L argenta motor, essentially same block amongst most of the other parts..... mostly. Now the US cars have the TDC mark in a different spot to the AUS cars (AUS cars have them on the plastic cam belt cover/ protector) I had to use my original US pulley as things didn't line up properly but then timing it was a bit of a challenge as the pulley was no longer near the timing cover like the original unit but made do...
I am overhauling my engine and thought I may get the US style of front crank cover so I can have the timing point back in the right spot. As it happens in the mean time I had added the 36-1 wheel for future EDIS spark. Now my US style pulley with the 36-1 wheel wont fit on with the US style of TDC pointer......
If you were ensure you can get 'everything' from a FI donor, including the Tank, fuel pump, fuel lines if they are different, front T piece, wiring harness, computer, dual relay, AFM, the thermo to head piece may be different to accommodate the holes for the bypass valve, you may as well buy a new rubber hose, inlet manifold complete with injectors/regulator and you will need to run a thick 12V supply wire to the unit and have the block and computer it well grounded
Cheers David
-=1980 silver Fiat 124 Spider=-
If you want to see pics of my car (and other random stuff) >>click here<< OR
see my >>You tube channel<<
-=1980 silver Fiat 124 Spider=-
If you want to see pics of my car (and other random stuff) >>click here<< OR
see my >>You tube channel<<
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- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: Cold Starting
Just sold my front wheel drive 1985 Plymouth Voyager after 30 years of basically trouble free driving. It was the no frills model with a 5 speed and a staged 2 barrel Holley. Did have to do a few mufflers and replace the brake linings a few times. Only had to align it once when I replaced the drive shafts, control arm bushings, ball joints and steering rack after about 20 some odd years. Replaced the clutch once and only had to dress up the flywheel a bit. I believe I had to put a Jiffy kit in the carb once to replace the seals and accelerator pump. Ethanol did take its toll on the diaphragm in the fuel pump once also. It had the Canadian built 2.2 engine which was still solid and did not burn oil. I did replace the timing belt too.AriK wrote:GM s were great cars in the 70s. Those big rear wheel drives were bullet proof but after 10 years they would turn to dust with our hard winters. There were many of those cars around here driving around with no lower rear fenders and see-thru trunk compartments. I even remember no matter what brand of GM it was if it was on the road long enough the frames would break behind the rear wheel arches causing the bumpers to wave at the drivers behind. Mechanics, however still strong as a bullet.GeorgeT wrote:American cars made in the US in the 70's were, with a few rare exceptions, junk anyway.bradartigue wrote:
No it's just a 1970s car. My parents have this weird memory of old cars being simple and therefore simple was reliable. But do you remember how many 70s cars were on the side of the road, or leaked something, even when new? Or they were hard to start or lumpy or whatever.
In the 80s GM however were never capable of grasping the front wheel drives. The trend lasted many, many years, crappily designed front ends and suspensions. Chrysler's Iacocca cars and Ford had a related fate as well.
My 69 Power Wagon with the 440 was still going strong at 250,000 miles when I traded it in, Chrysler Slant 6 powered cars from the 60's and 70's could go 300,000 miles if you changed the oil regularly, my 86 2.2 Turbo NewYorker went well over 150,000 miles, was still running strong when I traded it in and had only required one alignment. My parents complained that the E-Class NewYorker had held up better and had been much more reliable than their newer Buick LeSabre.
Primary wire inside the distributor that allowed for vacuum advance on the GM cars was a problem through the late 70's and probably responsible for many of their breakdowns on the side of the road While the Prestolite system used by Chrysler was a bit less fussy. People would ask, "How did you know that little wire was broken?"and the truth was that by that time I had enough fail on me when changing the points to be well familiar with that issue with the GM distributors from the 50's, 60's and 70's. GM frames would fail at the front of the rear wheel arch too and the gas tank straps were also prone to letting loose. Chryslers were more prone to spin their torsion bar sockets from salt damage.
Early automotive computer electronics were probably more responsible for the issues with the 80's cars along with the retirements of the engineers who gave us the 50's and 60's muscle cars. Iacocca solved a good number of Chrysler's problems by getting those old boys out of retirement and nursing homes to help the kid engineers learn how to design a solid engine. Too many viewed automotive engineering as not worth it and were aiming for Space and Aviation so in the 70's and 80's there was not that much top tier talent on the engine design teams facing the fuel crisis in the States. Remember Fords failed attempts at coming out with new pushrod engines in the 90's? It was almost like they forgot how to design them.
The Japanese were taking automotive more seriously then but still made some real clunkers. Many of Chrysler's issues in the 80's came from using Mitsubishi engines and drive trains that would knock, wrap and leak oil from day one and start burning oil in very short order.
Who remembers when Ford had to stop using their own automatic transmissions while they resolved the issue where they would drop into reverse if the driver left the car in park with the engine running and it would then run them down while they retrieved something from the trunk?
Fiat made some mistakes too. The Strada did not do much for their reputation in the States either.
- bradartigue
- Posts: 2183
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: Cold Starting
Nope. I would sell the carburetor car and buy a fuel injected one. Or just be happy with a 34ADF. Carburetors rule.srwilson wrote:If given an option would you swap out a carbureted system for a FI system?
I am comtemplating making this swap on my 79. My current setup is a 1800 intake and a 34ADF.
I'm just not sure if I am capable of doing the work and I really can't find a step by step guide.
Any help or thoughts?
1970 124 Spider
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
- srwilson
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 124 Fiat Spider 2000
- Location: Lexington, KY
Re: Cold Starting
Spoken like a true Carb guy!bradartigue wrote: Carburetors rule.
Well I'm not sure when or even if I'll make the swap but I've got the parts if I decide.
This winter has been great for spending time in the garage making updates, but right now I'm longing for some sweet sunshine and warmth! I wanna get this gal out on the road!
We got 11+ inches of snow last night! In Lexington KY!!! Crazy I tell ya!
-Steve
1979 Black Fiat Spider
2006 Black Chevy Silverado Crew Cab
1979 Black Fiat Spider
2006 Black Chevy Silverado Crew Cab