Drive shaft related
- bradartigue
- Posts: 2183
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: Drive shaft related
IIRC if you unbolt the entire rear end and can pull it backwards (set it on a creeper), then unhook the pillow block from the driveshaft, that the whole driveshaft assembly slides out of the transmission, guibo and all. That splined shaft isn't otherwise attached, it just slides on in there.
IIRC I also put a pillow or something under the driveshaft to catch it when the front of it fell to the ground.
IIRC I also put a pillow or something under the driveshaft to catch it when the front of it fell to the ground.
1970 124 Spider
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
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- Posts: 3996
- Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
- Location: Texas, USA
Re: Drive shaft related
Yes, I just did this today, however the flexdisc (guibo) will stay attached to the trans, as the sliding block is behind the flexdisc. The driveshaft center support may need some adjusting so it slides past the handbrake mechanism.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
Re: Drive shaft related
Update: I have the drive shaft off and followed the recommended procedure of simply removed the 3 nuts to allow me to remove the shaft by simply sliding it back. The universals both look good, but I took one out in order to separate the shaft, so on reinstallation I will put in a new one. I took the front part of the shaft to a shop and they replaced the pillow block and bearing using a press. Today I will finish the project and trust all will be well again.
Re: Drive shaft related
Morning guys:
Sorry, but my problem has not gone away, I installed the repaired front shaft with the new pillow block and bearing and there is still a metallic clicking sound coming from the back end as I accelerate, the faster I go the louder it is, so needless to say I don't really go fast.
Some of it may be that when I installed the shaft I couldn't tell where my marks were, as they were removed by the mechanic when he washed the forward shaft. Both my forward and rear parts of the shaft have small weights on them, does anyone know if they should be on the same side or opposite sides? At the moment they are on the same sides, so my job tomorrow is to remove the shaft again and redo the universals so that they are on different sides. Also I did not put new universals on the rear shaft as they looked good, so will probably change them as well, since I have a new one.
My question is: what if the noise is still there, what do you think it could be? As I said earlier, this is the only vehicle I have with me other than the motorhome, so I need to get it running again.
Thanks
Sorry, but my problem has not gone away, I installed the repaired front shaft with the new pillow block and bearing and there is still a metallic clicking sound coming from the back end as I accelerate, the faster I go the louder it is, so needless to say I don't really go fast.
Some of it may be that when I installed the shaft I couldn't tell where my marks were, as they were removed by the mechanic when he washed the forward shaft. Both my forward and rear parts of the shaft have small weights on them, does anyone know if they should be on the same side or opposite sides? At the moment they are on the same sides, so my job tomorrow is to remove the shaft again and redo the universals so that they are on different sides. Also I did not put new universals on the rear shaft as they looked good, so will probably change them as well, since I have a new one.
My question is: what if the noise is still there, what do you think it could be? As I said earlier, this is the only vehicle I have with me other than the motorhome, so I need to get it running again.
Thanks
- KevAndAndi
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:14 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Fiat Spider 2000
- Location: Chatham, NJ
Re: Drive shaft related
Buddy, sorry to hear your problem persists. I'm not the guy to opine on what it could be, but I thought I would post this link on the flex donut and driveshaft carrier support bearing and housing as it may help someone in the future when they read this thread:
http://www.ebay.com/gds/Flex-Donut-Disa ... 632/g.html
http://www.ebay.com/gds/Flex-Donut-Disa ... 632/g.html
Kevin
1981 Spider 2000
1981 Spider 2000
- bradartigue
- Posts: 2183
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: Drive shaft related
topbuddy wrote:Morning guys:
Sorry, but my problem has not gone away, I installed the repaired front shaft with the new pillow block and bearing and there is still a metallic clicking sound coming from the back end as I accelerate, the faster I go the louder it is, so needless to say I don't really go fast.
Some of it may be that when I installed the shaft I couldn't tell where my marks were, as they were removed by the mechanic when he washed the forward shaft. Both my forward and rear parts of the shaft have small weights on them, does anyone know if they should be on the same side or opposite sides? At the moment they are on the same sides, so my job tomorrow is to remove the shaft again and redo the universals so that they are on different sides. Also I did not put new universals on the rear shaft as they looked good, so will probably change them as well, since I have a new one.
My question is: what if the noise is still there, what do you think it could be? As I said earlier, this is the only vehicle I have with me other than the motorhome, so I need to get it running again.
Thanks
All you can do is replace those U-joints with new ones and hope for the best. Clicking in my experience has been the differential.
1970 124 Spider
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
- azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: Drive shaft related
If the drive shaft was not reassembled the same and thus out of balance, you would notice vibration getting worse at certain rpms. If you arent getting vibration, i am thinking like Brad. You've got a chipped tooth in the diffy.
Re: Drive shaft related
well 4PM Eastern here in Florida and I just finished installing the drive shaft once again and the shaft is more stable than before, however there is still the audible noise coming from the rear end. Question: When the car is up on stands in the rear should both wheels turn when running in gear? Cause only my wheel on the driver's side is turning freely while the other one is still or kicking now and then, is this normal? I ask because I believe my problem is now in the rear end and I would like to have some idea of just what may need replacement. Another thing is just how difficult is it to take the dif apart? I seem to be getting more tools all the time, breaker bars etc. Has anyone out there had to do this, if so, help please.
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- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: Drive shaft related
Having only one wheel turning could simply be that the brake on the other side is dragging more so yes it can be common though not that desirable.topbuddy wrote:well 4PM Eastern here in Florida and I just finished installing the drive shaft once again and the shaft is more stable than before, however there is still the audible noise coming from the rear end. Question: When the car is up on stands in the rear should both wheels turn when running in gear? Cause only my wheel on the driver's side is turning freely while the other one is still or kicking now and then, is this normal? I ask because I believe my problem is now in the rear end and I would like to have some idea of just what may need replacement. Another thing is just how difficult is it to take the dif apart? I seem to be getting more tools all the time, breaker bars etc. Has anyone out there had to do this, if so, help please.
From an initial glance it looks like you have to remove or at least pull each axle shaft out several inches before you can remove the differential on the ones that bolt on from the front.
I will probably be facing similar shortly however the Spider being my only car right now I will be putting that off until after I get some overdue services completed on my Aprilia. At this time the Aprilia is my Summer/Fair Weather vehicle and the Spider the Foul Weather vehicle. For the past 4 years though before picking up the Spider I have commuted year round with the Aprilia.
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- Patron 2020
- Posts: 3466
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
- Location: Baltimore, MD
Re: Drive shaft related
Not unless you have a limited-slip differential, which was not available as a factory option on your car.topbuddy wrote:Question: When the car is up on stands in the rear should both wheels turn when running in gear?
Particularly without access to specialty tools, your best solution for a worn diff is to replace the entire axle. In junk yards, the one usable Spider part is almost always the rear axle. 1980 and up will work without modification.
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- Posts: 3996
- Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
- Location: Texas, USA
Re: Drive shaft related
> Not unless you have a limited-slip differential, which was not available as a factory option on your car.
Although I have never seen one or heard of one being installed by the factory, in some owners manuals under the specs for the differential it said something like "Optional limited slip differential" I copied that page once for someone who was racing a Spider and his racing organization would not allow a LSD unless it was available when the car was new.
Although I have never seen one or heard of one being installed by the factory, in some owners manuals under the specs for the differential it said something like "Optional limited slip differential" I copied that page once for someone who was racing a Spider and his racing organization would not allow a LSD unless it was available when the car was new.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
Re: Drive shaft related
I had to rent a car for a month as I was unable to repair the problem that started with the pillow block wearing out on the composite drive shaft. I had problems getting the drive shaft out of the car and then I had a local mechanic install the new pillow block. I had marked the shaft when removing it from the car but unfortunately when the mechanic installed the block somehow the markings were removed so I could not install to the previous positions on the drive shaft. I tried reversing the u-joints and the shaft still is not balanced. When I drive slowly with gas on I get the clicking that I already mentioned but also when I accelerate past 15 mph I get a shaking or wobbling which I feel in the car.
I will be leaving Florida within 5 days and will trailer the car back to Nova Scotia for eventual repair. Does anyone know of a shop that can balance a drive shaft? I will still have to deal with the clicking but believe it is in the diff, however I can't be sure since I still do not have a smooth turning shaft. Any help or advise will be appreciated as this is the worse problem I have encountered with the Spider.
I will be leaving Florida within 5 days and will trailer the car back to Nova Scotia for eventual repair. Does anyone know of a shop that can balance a drive shaft? I will still have to deal with the clicking but believe it is in the diff, however I can't be sure since I still do not have a smooth turning shaft. Any help or advise will be appreciated as this is the worse problem I have encountered with the Spider.
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- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Drive shaft related
I had a vibration as well once upon a time. Jacked the rear of the car up, put the axle on jack stands, but a block on the front wheels(for what it was worth) and started the car. Put it in 2nd and had a look at the drive shaft. Used a stick for the gas pedal and I noticed the shaft bouncing around. I found that when I replaced the u-joints, I had not seated them properly and they were just a hair out. Reset and got the retaining clip in properly and repeated the drive,2nd etc. and it was way smoother.
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box