I'm sure there are plenty of posts already covering this topic, but I can't seem to find them at the moment. I was wondering what the protocol is for storing a Spider, especially during the winter.
I know these cars are erroneously famous for rusting away, and so I want to make sure that I don't help that process any more than nature already does. I'm still trying to get the car, but it is a '79 model soft top in decent condition - a little rusting but nothing major at all. Still far from showcase condition though! I live in the Midwest and we do have some wet conditions in the winter, but never more than a few inches of snow or a sheet of ice. Would it be appropriate to store the car outside with a cover or do I need a garage? We have a spare garage in the basement of our house, but I've found mold in it and I'm worried it wouldn't be good for the car.
Let me know what you think are the proper conditions for storing my car in both winter and summer (year round temps vary from 0-110)
Storage
- 4uall
- Posts: 4145
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:09 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 Fiat Pininfarina Spider 2000 F.I.
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: Storage
Jay
Fiona
1980 FI 2000 Spider
ITZEBTZE
https://goo.gl/photos/eNKaX7hrXhBu9fmp6
FINN (FN-2187)
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport
MYTHERPY
Fiona
1980 FI 2000 Spider
ITZEBTZE
https://goo.gl/photos/eNKaX7hrXhBu9fmp6
FINN (FN-2187)
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport
MYTHERPY
- 81SPIDERMATT
- Posts: 1239
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:10 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 spider 2000
- Location: FORT COLLINS, CO
Re: Storage
I could be wrong ... it happens often .... but I think that the garage would be best .... mold means moisture (was or is present) but I still think it would be better than outside with a cover .... some stabil in a full gas tank ... some of the guys put them up on blocks .....
heater for the spare garage and viola winter work space for your new best friend
heater for the spare garage and viola winter work space for your new best friend
-
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2014 4:29 pm
- Your car is a: 1976 Fiat 124 Spider
- Location: London UK
Re: Storage
In the UK we're obsessive about the weather so I consider myself a barrack-room expert (i.e. I know very little).
I think the garage would be the best, but only if the humidity is kept low (otherwise it could make things worse). The following link - dew point calculator is really useful. If you've got mould already then you need to solve this first. And get a humidity meter to be assured that you have. What you need is either lots and lots of ventilation (and some heat) or alternatively & even better a dehumidifier with no / little ventilation.
http://www.dpcalc.org/index.php
There's some other options such as indoor and outdoor caroons. Personally I wouldn't trust them as I don't understand the physics of recirculating ambient air (which is potentially moist), but some claim they work ok.
http://www.carcoon.com/
Or a sealed bag effect, which makes more sense to me, but is a lot of dough and probably aggro.
https://www.autopyjama.com/permabag-uk/
Personally I've gone for a permanent plumbed-in dehumdifier and tried to seal the garage (albeit only sealed over winter) with 3" thermal boards wedged tight against the garage door and taped to make it as air-tight as possible (in order to stop dehumifiying the world) plus a 100w tube heater underneath. I've no idea if I'm doing the right thing, but the science of it makes sense to me. It's maintaining a humidity of 30% +/- 5max. which is pretty good. The heater is only there to stop any moist cold air that does manage to get in from condensing on cold metalwork. By the way the type of humidifier that's best is the desiccant wheel type of dehumidifier as these continue to work in low temperatures whereas others don't. Depends how cold it gets.
I've learnt the hard way as before I did all this I kept another car (not a 124 I'm glad to say) in the same garage with nothing but ventilation through the fairly draughty door. Fighting rust was a losing battle. Then was given a digital humidity sensor and left it to log data for a week. It recorded 80% RH which shocked me as until then I'd been living in ignorant bliss and made me realise that I'd been culpable in cause the poor cars demise...
I think the garage would be the best, but only if the humidity is kept low (otherwise it could make things worse). The following link - dew point calculator is really useful. If you've got mould already then you need to solve this first. And get a humidity meter to be assured that you have. What you need is either lots and lots of ventilation (and some heat) or alternatively & even better a dehumidifier with no / little ventilation.
http://www.dpcalc.org/index.php
There's some other options such as indoor and outdoor caroons. Personally I wouldn't trust them as I don't understand the physics of recirculating ambient air (which is potentially moist), but some claim they work ok.
http://www.carcoon.com/
Or a sealed bag effect, which makes more sense to me, but is a lot of dough and probably aggro.
https://www.autopyjama.com/permabag-uk/
Personally I've gone for a permanent plumbed-in dehumdifier and tried to seal the garage (albeit only sealed over winter) with 3" thermal boards wedged tight against the garage door and taped to make it as air-tight as possible (in order to stop dehumifiying the world) plus a 100w tube heater underneath. I've no idea if I'm doing the right thing, but the science of it makes sense to me. It's maintaining a humidity of 30% +/- 5max. which is pretty good. The heater is only there to stop any moist cold air that does manage to get in from condensing on cold metalwork. By the way the type of humidifier that's best is the desiccant wheel type of dehumidifier as these continue to work in low temperatures whereas others don't. Depends how cold it gets.
I've learnt the hard way as before I did all this I kept another car (not a 124 I'm glad to say) in the same garage with nothing but ventilation through the fairly draughty door. Fighting rust was a losing battle. Then was given a digital humidity sensor and left it to log data for a week. It recorded 80% RH which shocked me as until then I'd been living in ignorant bliss and made me realise that I'd been culpable in cause the poor cars demise...
- RRoller123
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 8179
- Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:04 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 FI SPIDER 2000
- Location: SAGAMORE BEACH, MA USA
Re: Storage
You could run a dehumidifier in the garage to help keep the mold at bay. I would think this a good idea regardless of whether the Spider is being stored there! Put the car on jack stands under the front lower ball joints and on the rear axle to keep the tires from taking a set.
'80 FI Spider 2000
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
Re: Storage
rather than use Stabil, I'd suggest Carb Defender by Driven Oil. It treats the metal in the tank and carb to prevent corrosion from the ethanol