Cylinder head work...need advice

[ga.spyder]

Hey Gang.After close to 90K of use I have decided to have the head work done to my 82.It has been an awesome car,and still runs great.However,the valve seals are shot,has developed some leaks, and it is time.... Removed the head last week and contacted Beek(member here).He has a machine shop and is extremely knowledgable with these cars.He is also a fellow racer! I dropped the head off on my way to SoFla ,and picked it up,completed,a few days later.Thanks Beek,for the great work and awesome service!!
My first question as I start to put her back together. Should I use gasket sealer on the water pump,or anywhere else,or is just the gasket ok? I will probably have some more questions, as this is as far as I have attempted to go with the engine. I am a good detail guy, but not as familiar with motor work

[sgkent]

You might ask the machinist who did your heads as he probably has a good grasp on it. We used to assemble our racing engines dry back in the 1980's with the factory gasket sets. I don't know what sets are available today and it has been almost 35 years since I built a Fiat 124 engine. From my more recent experience on other engines, gasket sealer can be a two edged sword. Sometimes it will help things to seal better, and sometimes it will allow gaskets to move and migrate under pressure. I have on occasion watched gaskets gently creep until they blow out when sealer is used. Take a good look at the gaskets themselves to see what they are made of. Also sometimes the manufacturer will tell you with the instruction sheet they are packed with what sealer to use or none at all. If anything, a little in the corner of gaskets where they abut a flat surface at 90 degrees will help. We used spray copper coat on the metal head gaskets but some will have a coating on them already and say do not use sealer. As a general rule, any head bolts that go into a water jacket will need some non-hardening permatex #2 on them or perhaps Teflon sealant. As I recall the most common mistake folks used to make with the Fiat engines was forgetting the small round ferrules that go between the block and head on some engines, forgetting to clean out the stainless breather flame arrestor inside the breather hose as it gums up, and timing the jack shaft properly. If the machinist did not adjust the valves for you, be sure to do it before you bolt the head on in case any are way out.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks for the reply and the info.I bought a quality gasket set from AutoRicambi.There were no sheets with any rec. that came with it.I will contact Beek,for his suggestions.The valves are adjusted and read to run.Thanks again

[digitech]

I would use Permatex Aviation gasket sealer - it goes on nice and light with a brush, holds the gasket in position and provides a nice seal. I've never had an issue with it - like RTV - but I will say, I wouldn't attempt a dry assembly of parts anywhere in the "water chain".

[131]

I would use Permatex Aviation gasket sealer

X2. I've used that stuff for over 30 years, there may be better more modern stuff available, but I've never had a problem using Permatex. Silicon is horrible stuff, it shouldn't be used anywhere near an engine. Head gasket goes on dry on my motor.

[garion]

When I've played with the heads, the only RTV I used was on the waterpump and other coolant passages entering/exiting the head.. I used this stuff, which looks specially designed for coolant..: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... /7160009-P

[bran100]

This should be helpful...
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24253

[ga.spyder]

Thank you for the link to that thread. That was exactly what I was looking for.