Failed AZ Emissions for NOX

[BNelsonAz]

My son's 1980 FI failed only NOX on the emissions. It was close (I think), 3.45 vs. 3.15 Grams per mile, The super informative pamphlet (not) lists EGR valve, Catalytic, and off-dle timing. My understanding was that the previous owner replaced the Cat. It looks really new.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks, as always, for your help!

Bill

[azruss]

you dont need to pass emissions on an 80 to get a plate. I think the cut-off is 30 years old.

[BNelsonAz]

you dont need to pass emissions on an 80 to get a plate. I think the cut-off is 30 years old.

That's what I thought, but they required me to take an emissions test when I went to register it online!

[BNelsonAz]

Nope, found this on the ADEQ website...guess I need to get it tested...

Air Quality Division: Vehicle Emissions: What Vehicles Need to be Tested?
Unless specifically exempted, all 1967 and newer vehicles (including diesels) that are registered in the metro Phoenix (Area A) or metro Tucson (Area B) emission test areas must receive an emissions inspection no more than 90 days prior to registration.

Your registration renewal application from the Motor Vehicles Division (MVD) will say "Emission Test Required" when it is time to have your vehicle tested. If your vehicle has not previously required an emission test, to determine if testing is required or if you have questions about requirements for your vehicle, please contact:

[garion]

If you register it as a classic vehicle, you don't. I have a 79 that i didn't have to have tested. Vehicle must be at least 25 years old... Will also need classic/historic insurance, like Hagerty.. Just means you can't drive more than X miles a year (I think mine is it 2500 or something)..

[70spider]

Wow limited to only 2500 miles per year, that would be tough. Since getting my Spider back in March I have had it running for only about 3 months and have put over 4,000 miles on him.
Back in the 80's I lived in Albuquerque and had to get my '69 Impala emission tested, I was worried but the tech who did the test said my car was being judged based on 1969 standards. Another bit of advice he gave me was to get a fresh tune-up and carb cleaning before getting tested.

[johndemar]

If you register it as a classic vehicle, you don't. I have a 79 that i didn't have to have tested. Vehicle must be at least 25 years old... Will also need classic/historic insurance, like Hagerty.. Just means you can't drive more than X miles a year (I think mine is it 2500 or something)..

John, I have Hagerty and don't recall them ever asking about the mileage on the car. They may state that somewhere in the policy, but not sure how they would enforce it.

[wizard124]

Look thru this http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29285

[vandor]

Just because the converter is new does not mean it's good. Lot of cheap aftermarket converters won't even last a year.

[azruss]

my car had been previously registered in Arizona as a non-classic car. I had no trouble getting it registered as a classic. I have Grundy insurance. limitations are a non work vehicle and wont cover if running errands. You have to state the anticipated miles you expect to drive. Right now i'm on a 4k a year pace. So far no long trips. It was interesting that i got non-classic plates. I hate those copper looking ones. To get a classic plate required more money. I did have to pay for back registration for all the years the car was off the road.

[So Cal Mark]

to lower Nox you need to lower cylinder temperatures. You can accomplish this by running a richer mixture or retarding the timing. Most states require timing to be within 3 degrees of the factory setting. If that's your case, retard the timing to 7 btdc. What was the CO reading? You can test the catalyst with a temp gun, read the inlet and outlet temps. The outlet temp should be at least 100F hotter than the inlet

[BNelsonAz]

to lower Nox you need to lower cylinder temperatures. You can accomplish this by running a richer mixture or retarding the timing. Most states require timing to be within 3 degrees of the factory setting. If that's your case, retard the timing to 7 btdc. What was the CO reading? You can test the catalyst with a temp gun, read the inlet and outlet temps. The outlet temp should be at least 100F hotter than the inlet

Sounds like a plan. I'll throw the timing light on it this weekend and back it off to 7. I'll also grab a temp gun from work and check the Cat.

The CO was good it read 5.53 grams/mile against a 25 grams/mile limit. Hydrocarbons were also good.

Great ideas. Thanks, Mark!

[BNelsonAz]

my car had been previously registered in Arizona as a non-classic car. I had no trouble getting it registered as a classic. I have Grundy insurance. limitations are a non work vehicle and wont cover if running errands. You have to state the anticipated miles you expect to drive. Right now i'm on a 4k a year pace. So far no long trips. It was interesting that i got non-classic plates. I hate those copper looking ones. To get a classic plate required more money. I did have to pay for back registration for all the years the car was off the road.

I looked into registering it as a Classic when we first bought it, but my son is using it as his daily driver, and it is not garaged. Hagerty wasn't interested in writing the policy with those conditions and didn't like that he is only 18.

[azruss]

this is your chance to get the car for yourself. make him go out and find a car that passes emissions. With all the work you've put into that car, it should be yours anyhow.

[BNelsonAz]

this is your chance to get the car for yourself. make him go out and find a car that passes emissions. With all the work you've put into that car, it should be yours anyhow.

Hah! Good idea! I must admit taking some long drives to "test" the new motor install myself! Honestly though he has been right there under it with me the whole time, and it has been a great learning/bonding experience for the both of us.