Magnetic Pickup Coil (?)

[mattklatt]

Hey everyone.

A couple months ago, I had a problem where the car wouldn't start for a few hours (4+) after turning it off after a short drive. It got to the point where it would shut off while driving, and then where it wouldn't start at all. After some diagnostic work with my dad, we discovered that the source of the problem was the magnetic pickup coil. I replaced it and all was well...for a while.

Just yesterday it died on me in a Safeway parking lot. I hadn't been driving it much and the fuel gauge doesn't work 3/4 of the time, so I initially thought it was just out of fuel. I poured some gas in (always keep a jerry can handy!) but it still wouldn't start.

Symptoms: 1st gear was sluggish and it shortly died, turning the key it cranked and fired up only to die a second later. After this it would just crank. After about 20 minutes, it fired up for a second, and then died again; now only cranking. I returned to the car about 6 hours later, and it only cranked.

It is also about 10 - 25 degrees today/yesterday, so I'm not sure if the cold is a factor here. I think that the magnetic pickup coil may have gone bad again. Anyone have any thoughts on this? If it is this coil, anyone have any ideas why it would go bad again after only about 4 months?

Thanks for any help!

[ORFORD2004]

Check for sparks

[DanD]

If the car runs on starting fluid, then you know it isn't the spark.

[vandor]

They usually go bad if the wires are old an lose their insulation OR if they are not routed correctly and they get damaged by the reluctor paddles inside the distributor. They are easy enough to check visually. There is also a resistance test of the pickup coil itself, the resistance between the 2 wires is supposed to be 700-800 ohms, and neither wire should have continuity to ground.

[ga.spyder]

A bad ignition control module will give very similar symptoms.You can get a cheap replacement from any parts store in the $15-20 range.It was used on 80's model GM cars.

[mattklatt]

Update on recent events:

The car fired up when using starting fluid, so it's probably not spark. My friend thinks its the fuel pump give this, and that 1st gear was sluggish/lurched before the car died.

A new problem:
We towed it back to my apartment, but when we were trying to roll it into a parking space it we found out the brakes had frozen. The car won't budge when pushed and even took some extra force from my friend's Wrangler to get it rolling again. I'll make a post about this in a different forum.

The car also fired up immediately when I tried right after we towed it. The engine ran really well, but unfortunately died after about 30 seconds and didn't start back up again.

[Martin124]

If it's the rear brakes that have frozen it is most likely the flexible brake hose in the centre of the car just near the differential. This hose, when old, has a tendency to collapse internally and not allow the brake fluid to return after the brake pedal is released. From personal experience, I would replace this hose first and then investigate further only if the problem persists.

[vandor]

I've seen rear calipers where the handbrake lever was stuck on even when the handbrake was released.
Might be worth checking.

[mattklatt]

Super late, I know; but, just wanted to give an update for anyone who stumbles on this thread in the future.

It wasn't the pickup coil. The issue now seems to be that the electric fuel pump is not getting any power.

As for the brakes being stuck: They loosened up over night. I guess using them so hard while being towed just got the fluid stuck in the lines for a while or something. I'll probably have to replace those in the near future.