Chinese 34ADF Thread
- johnsje6
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2013 10:44 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: East Peoria Illinois
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
OK, finally have time for a better description of my carb swap. When i got my Chinese ADF, it had some screws loose and the linkage was pretty tight, so tightened the screws and lubed the linkage and it looked OK. Took off all the vacuum lines except for the distributor advance and the brake booster, lots of stuff on that carb!
Removed the charcoal canister, vacuum valve, etc on the driver side fender as well, then pulled the carb and intake, that's when I noticed the extra hole in the head, which I found out was a passage through the head from the exhaust side for the EGR, which is not on the 1800 intake. Far left hole.
New gasket with extra hole.
I loosened the EGR tube on the exhaust side and slipped a thin steel plate under it, then retightened to block the port, seemed like the easiest way to go at the time.
Installed the new intake and carb, there was a LOT more room with all the vacuum stuff and the EGR gone, looks much cleaner.
That's when I noticed that the throttle linkage was different than the original (of course, I should have looked at it BEFORE i installed it! So I took the linkage lever from the original
And replaced the one on my ADF
To get the finished product - was actually pretty easy.
Started right up, adjusted the idle, then went for a 3 mile round trip test drive, when I noticed that every time I pushed in the clutch, the idle had gone up, when I got home it was at 3,500 rpm! Checked the idle stop screw and the fast idle screw on the water choke, and they were good. Removed the carb to try and figure it out when I noticed that the secondary was propped open!
Looked it all over, that's when I found the secondary stop screw, which was literally rattling around in it's threaded hole, I put some permatex on it and set it, so far seems to be holding up OK. Screwdriver is pointing to the stop screw.
Air cleaner fits as per stock, no hood clearance problems, and so far runs great, but I have only put about 30 miles on it as I am currently replacing my heater valve to prep for cooler fall weather. An added bonus to that project is that I found the source of the mouse urine aroma that wafts through the car every time I turn on the heater or vent
Any questions about the carb swap, let me know - I dont do rodent control though!
Removed the charcoal canister, vacuum valve, etc on the driver side fender as well, then pulled the carb and intake, that's when I noticed the extra hole in the head, which I found out was a passage through the head from the exhaust side for the EGR, which is not on the 1800 intake. Far left hole.
New gasket with extra hole.
I loosened the EGR tube on the exhaust side and slipped a thin steel plate under it, then retightened to block the port, seemed like the easiest way to go at the time.
Installed the new intake and carb, there was a LOT more room with all the vacuum stuff and the EGR gone, looks much cleaner.
That's when I noticed that the throttle linkage was different than the original (of course, I should have looked at it BEFORE i installed it! So I took the linkage lever from the original
And replaced the one on my ADF
To get the finished product - was actually pretty easy.
Started right up, adjusted the idle, then went for a 3 mile round trip test drive, when I noticed that every time I pushed in the clutch, the idle had gone up, when I got home it was at 3,500 rpm! Checked the idle stop screw and the fast idle screw on the water choke, and they were good. Removed the carb to try and figure it out when I noticed that the secondary was propped open!
Looked it all over, that's when I found the secondary stop screw, which was literally rattling around in it's threaded hole, I put some permatex on it and set it, so far seems to be holding up OK. Screwdriver is pointing to the stop screw.
Air cleaner fits as per stock, no hood clearance problems, and so far runs great, but I have only put about 30 miles on it as I am currently replacing my heater valve to prep for cooler fall weather. An added bonus to that project is that I found the source of the mouse urine aroma that wafts through the car every time I turn on the heater or vent
Any questions about the carb swap, let me know - I dont do rodent control though!
John J.
1979 Spider 2000
1979 Spider 2000
- MrJD
- Posts: 551
- Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:23 pm
- Your car is a: Looking to ask questions about a 79 2.0
- Location: Laurinburg NC
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
snap me a picture of the yellow decal on top of your air cleaner.
- johnsje6
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2013 10:44 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: East Peoria Illinois
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Ask and ye shall receive! The rusty bit is the stud closest to the windshield.
John J.
1979 Spider 2000
1979 Spider 2000
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Anyone have further thoughts on the Chinese 34ADF?
Mine just arrived and am going to try and bolt it on this weekend.
Thanks!
Mine just arrived and am going to try and bolt it on this weekend.
Thanks!
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Ok, here is my report.
Paid $155 for the carb off Ebay, was shipped from China, and arrived in under a week.
It's a direct bolt up to my stock 79, on the old crappy intake I didn't feel like messing with. (don't judge me).
I had to swap the top linkage plate, like the other member, and it was a bit tricky because as soon as you undo that bolt, the springs and the other levers pop out of their seats and you can get it back together wrong. You have to keep pressure on the whole assembly the whole time.
I too had to tighten most of the screws and nuts.
The distrubtor hose connected right up. I plugged the outlet to the charcoal canister. The two water choke lines went right on, and the fuel lines. No issues at all.
Took a drive, and wow! It's like someone put a second engine in the car! Best $150 upgrade ever to my sluggish 79.
I cannot say enough about the change. If you told me you took the car away and brought it back with a rebuilt engine, valve work, and a new cam, I would believe it. It's crazy.
Had the exact same idle racing issue as the OP, had to pull over and get at that tiny screw. I just removed it, as it wasn't doing anything I could see was necessary.
Out of the box and connected to my linkage with no adjustments, it idles at 1400 in neural or park, and 900-1000 in drive. Perfect for me.
I don't know about its durability, but for now I could not be happier.
On unresolved issue is the is no way to attach the electric idle stop wire. (You can see it in one of the pictures).
The car drives great without it, so I am going to just ignore it for now.
IMG_4088 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4093 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4090 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4089 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4091 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
Paid $155 for the carb off Ebay, was shipped from China, and arrived in under a week.
It's a direct bolt up to my stock 79, on the old crappy intake I didn't feel like messing with. (don't judge me).
I had to swap the top linkage plate, like the other member, and it was a bit tricky because as soon as you undo that bolt, the springs and the other levers pop out of their seats and you can get it back together wrong. You have to keep pressure on the whole assembly the whole time.
I too had to tighten most of the screws and nuts.
The distrubtor hose connected right up. I plugged the outlet to the charcoal canister. The two water choke lines went right on, and the fuel lines. No issues at all.
Took a drive, and wow! It's like someone put a second engine in the car! Best $150 upgrade ever to my sluggish 79.
I cannot say enough about the change. If you told me you took the car away and brought it back with a rebuilt engine, valve work, and a new cam, I would believe it. It's crazy.
Had the exact same idle racing issue as the OP, had to pull over and get at that tiny screw. I just removed it, as it wasn't doing anything I could see was necessary.
Out of the box and connected to my linkage with no adjustments, it idles at 1400 in neural or park, and 900-1000 in drive. Perfect for me.
I don't know about its durability, but for now I could not be happier.
On unresolved issue is the is no way to attach the electric idle stop wire. (You can see it in one of the pictures).
The car drives great without it, so I am going to just ignore it for now.
IMG_4088 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4093 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4090 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4089 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
IMG_4091 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr
-
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 823
- Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:58 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 spider 2000
- Location: Charlotte, NC
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
The loose wire is used for the electric choke. If you have a water choke, you can just leave it hanging.
1979 Fiat Spider (since new)
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
That's great news. Thanks!
Just took it on the highway, and its spinning lower revs at higher speeds than before, which is great.
It also has a fantastic secondary for passing or gunning an onramp, that the stock carb never delivered on.
Just took it on the highway, and its spinning lower revs at higher speeds than before, which is great.
It also has a fantastic secondary for passing or gunning an onramp, that the stock carb never delivered on.
-
- Posts: 3996
- Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
- Location: Texas, USA
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
>The loose wire is used for the electric choke
On his car it was used for the idle solenoid, which the new carb does not have.
On his car it was used for the idle solenoid, which the new carb does not have.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Oh, right. I read that last night. But I am good either way, right?
I feel like this carb makes the engine run hotter, but it just may be that I am driving it harder because I can with this carb.
I feel like this carb makes the engine run hotter, but it just may be that I am driving it harder because I can with this carb.
-
- Posts: 3996
- Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
- Location: Texas, USA
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Yes, you should be fine.
FWIW if the mixture is lean the car could run hotter.
Make sure the jetting is right for your car.
FWIW if the mixture is lean the car could run hotter.
Make sure the jetting is right for your car.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
-
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2014 4:13 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider 2000
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
I'm glad to hear that the Chinese version of the Weber 34 ADF is working at least in one 1979 Fiat. I looked at that carb many times, but opted for the Weber. Indeed, only time will tell about the quality of this knock off. Either way, my conversion to the 34 ADF on the 1800cc has been incredible. The new throttle response and performance are amazing. Like having a new car. I had to disconnet the vacuum advance, but I feel it is not needed.
Roberto
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
2005 Toyota ECHO
2007 Honda Pilot
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
2005 Toyota ECHO
2007 Honda Pilot
- johnsje6
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2013 10:44 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: East Peoria Illinois
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
I have put a few hundred miles on mine with the cheap carb and it is still doing great, once I got the initial bugs fixed (loose screws), haven't had any problems and the performance boost with it and the 1800 intake on my '79 has been great! Think my gas mileage has dropped, but mainly because it is so much fun when the secondary opens up!
John J.
1979 Spider 2000
1979 Spider 2000
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Re: running lean.
The jets are totally unmarked. Does anyone have a suggestion of what size jets should be run on the 79 with a stock intake?
I guess I could buy genuine jets and install them, so I at lest know what the jetting is.
I also cannot identify the air mix screw on this carb, but I am sure I will find it sooner or later.
I will also pull the plugs and see how they look.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
The jets are totally unmarked. Does anyone have a suggestion of what size jets should be run on the 79 with a stock intake?
I guess I could buy genuine jets and install them, so I at lest know what the jetting is.
I also cannot identify the air mix screw on this carb, but I am sure I will find it sooner or later.
I will also pull the plugs and see how they look.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
- aj81spider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 1526
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:04 am
- Your car is a: 1974 Fiat 124 Spider
- Location: Chelmsford, MA
Re: Chinese 34ADF Thread
Here's a chart of stock carbs and their jetting. Hope it provides some help.
http://mirafiori.com/~pete/miscpics/fia ... _specs.jpg
http://mirafiori.com/~pete/miscpics/fia ... _specs.jpg
A.J.
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)