I decided to do a quick 1 hour job and replace the swaybar bushings....HA! The center brackets that hold the bushings are 2 piece and I couldnt seperate them.The manual doesnt mention this at all! Rather than destroy them I left them and decided to do the outers.My old ones have shrunk so much that I couldnt start the nuts to reattach the bar.Bottom line..2 1/2 hours later I put he bar back on w/ old bushings. What a mess! Anyone else have these issues and any tips to get this done?
Craig
Swaybar bushings
- ga.spyder
- Posts: 3478
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 7:19 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider 2000
- Location: Blairsville ,Ga.
Swaybar bushings
Craig Nelson
1982 Spider 2000...pride and joy
1981 Fiat X1/9..gone but not forgotten
1976 124 Spider..the self-healer
2001 BMW 328ci daily driver and track car
Fling It Around Turns !
1982 Spider 2000...pride and joy
1981 Fiat X1/9..gone but not forgotten
1976 124 Spider..the self-healer
2001 BMW 328ci daily driver and track car
Fling It Around Turns !
- Curly
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:09 am
- Your car is a: 1968 AC Coupe and a 1976 CS1 Spider
- Location: Gippsland - Victoria, Australia
Re: Swaybar bushings
The 2-piece bush housings are welded together and the only way I've managed to rebush them is by grinding the welds off and then rewelding them with the new bush in place. Very inconvenient I agree .
Curly from Oz
124AC coupe http://gallery.italiancarclub.com/124og ... -AC-coupe/
124CS1 spider http://gallery.italiancarclub.com/124og/curly/album52/
124AC coupe http://gallery.italiancarclub.com/124og ... -AC-coupe/
124CS1 spider http://gallery.italiancarclub.com/124og/curly/album52/
- ga.spyder
- Posts: 3478
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 7:19 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider 2000
- Location: Blairsville ,Ga.
Re: Swaybar bushings
I didnt see the welds ,but I didnt spend a lot of time on them.As I said ,the manual makes no mention of them being welded.Being I have no welder ,I guess I will have to take them to a shop after I grind them off.
Thanks ,Craig
Thanks ,Craig
Craig Nelson
1982 Spider 2000...pride and joy
1981 Fiat X1/9..gone but not forgotten
1976 124 Spider..the self-healer
2001 BMW 328ci daily driver and track car
Fling It Around Turns !
1982 Spider 2000...pride and joy
1981 Fiat X1/9..gone but not forgotten
1976 124 Spider..the self-healer
2001 BMW 328ci daily driver and track car
Fling It Around Turns !
-
- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Re: Swaybar bushings
Good thing you didn't have a 1" swaybar. They're a real bear to move close enough to start the nut. I use a C clamp to squeeze the bracket close enough to the studs to get the nuts started. I don't recall having a problem with the inner brackets. Maybe the early cars were different.
1972 124 Spider (Don)
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: Swaybar bushings
I'll agree that the brackets are an afterthought in the design. Obviously production costs outweighed designing a bracket that would seperate but also go back together to replace the bushings.
There is a procedure for replacing the bushings. To seperate the two halves of the bracket you have to drill out the flare on the back side. Here is a picture to illustrate: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/2473059952/
The two halves are swagged together with a flare. I think a 1/2" drill bit will work. The problem is that you almost have to drill through both pieces and usually end up with a 1/2" hole for a 1/4" stud.
When you put the whole thing back together you can assemble it on the car. You may want to clean up the threads on the studs first as they are usually rusty and could strip the nut. First put the new bushings on the bar and slide them to the general location where they should be. Secure the two outer bushings at the "A" arms first. Put the smaller rear bracket piece on and then line up the bushing. Put the outer bracket on and don't forget some washers.
Here is the hard part. If you can push up on the bar and get the nuts started then you should be pretty good. If you try to tighten the nuts to bring the whole assembily together then the pressure exerted by the bar and the rubber bushing will strip the threads off the stud or the nut.
You need to somehow push up on the bar or brackets and then tighten the nuts. I had to place a jack under the bracket to push it up so I could tighten the nuts. I had the whole weight of the front of the car on the jack under the bracket and it still did not completely come together.
Some people will assemble the parts on the bar, then use a clamp or vice to squeeze the brackets together. After that they tack weld the two brackets together where they touch. I didn't do it this way because I could not move the origonal bracket that was on the bar. If you dont assemble it on the right spot on the bar then it is very difficult to move once its clamped together. I also felt that the heat of the welding would melt some of the rubber.
If you clean up and paint the bar prior to installing the bushings and use some WD-40 the new rubber bushings will slide right on. If the bar is rusty, expect to fight the bushing all the way to where it is supposed to go.
Matt
There is a procedure for replacing the bushings. To seperate the two halves of the bracket you have to drill out the flare on the back side. Here is a picture to illustrate: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/2473059952/
The two halves are swagged together with a flare. I think a 1/2" drill bit will work. The problem is that you almost have to drill through both pieces and usually end up with a 1/2" hole for a 1/4" stud.
When you put the whole thing back together you can assemble it on the car. You may want to clean up the threads on the studs first as they are usually rusty and could strip the nut. First put the new bushings on the bar and slide them to the general location where they should be. Secure the two outer bushings at the "A" arms first. Put the smaller rear bracket piece on and then line up the bushing. Put the outer bracket on and don't forget some washers.
Here is the hard part. If you can push up on the bar and get the nuts started then you should be pretty good. If you try to tighten the nuts to bring the whole assembily together then the pressure exerted by the bar and the rubber bushing will strip the threads off the stud or the nut.
You need to somehow push up on the bar or brackets and then tighten the nuts. I had to place a jack under the bracket to push it up so I could tighten the nuts. I had the whole weight of the front of the car on the jack under the bracket and it still did not completely come together.
Some people will assemble the parts on the bar, then use a clamp or vice to squeeze the brackets together. After that they tack weld the two brackets together where they touch. I didn't do it this way because I could not move the origonal bracket that was on the bar. If you dont assemble it on the right spot on the bar then it is very difficult to move once its clamped together. I also felt that the heat of the welding would melt some of the rubber.
If you clean up and paint the bar prior to installing the bushings and use some WD-40 the new rubber bushings will slide right on. If the bar is rusty, expect to fight the bushing all the way to where it is supposed to go.
Matt
- ga.spyder
- Posts: 3478
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 7:19 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider 2000
- Location: Blairsville ,Ga.
Re: Swaybar bushings
Thanks ,Matt I can see how this procedure would work.I started to go after it w/ a jack but by then I was frustrated w/ the centers and blew off the whole deal!You say you didnt tack weld the brackets back together?Armed with these instructions I will re-assault the dreaded swaybar.
Thanks ,Craig
Thanks ,Craig
Craig Nelson
1982 Spider 2000...pride and joy
1981 Fiat X1/9..gone but not forgotten
1976 124 Spider..the self-healer
2001 BMW 328ci daily driver and track car
Fling It Around Turns !
1982 Spider 2000...pride and joy
1981 Fiat X1/9..gone but not forgotten
1976 124 Spider..the self-healer
2001 BMW 328ci daily driver and track car
Fling It Around Turns !
-
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 1807
- Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:31 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider hers 1972 Spider his
- Location: Hydesville, CA (NorCal)
Re: Swaybar bushings
My experience was about like yours, I foolishly thought it wound be a 30 minute job & an hour or two later I finally got the outer bushings replaced, (you're right getting the nuts started was a p.i.t.a. I was sweaty and madd). The inner ones looked pretty good and I didn't feel like messing with the swedged part, so I left them, (the only bushings in the whole front end that aren't new).
Trey
1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,