Temperature Climbs When in Stop & Go Traffic

[joelittel]

My temp slowly climbs when I'm forced to deal with stop and go traffic. Once I'm moving the temp comes back down to where it should be.

The car is an '80 with fuel injection.

Awhile back I read a post concerning this topic and now I can't find that post or remember what I read. I think what I read was that this could be the result of having a little air in my system and a good burping might fix the problem. Can you guys give me some adivce?

[2500diesel]

Find the register with the shortest line so you aren't idling as long?
Ba dum tish!


But seriously, folks, yes, burp it. Jack it up while it's running at temp, or put a tee in the line between the cams at the front of the engine.

[81SPIDERMATT]

also a symptom of a thermostat that is stuck open

[4uall]

way to many theories

no need to drill holes or even raise imo

this might help

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php ... verheating

[georgeramos]

After a LOT of shenanigans with the same issue im gonna guess either a little air in the system or a faulty stat or even a faulty gauge although that seems less likely.

[4uall]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFZG8KQJni8

[joelittel]

Gauges are all new, but it wouldn't hurt to check the wires leading to the gauges for any issues.

I really don't think it's the stat, it's new'ish and seemed clean when I had the system all apart over the winter.

Is the bleed screw (located between the cam pulleys on the coolant T outlet) ever used to bleed air out of the system? I feel dumb for even asking, but I've always wondered what the bleed screw is for. Since it's positioned above that little sensor I've always doubted I wanted any coolant coming out of the bleed screw and draining into my sensor, but I still wonder what is that little bleeder screw for?

[81SPIDERMATT]

there is a way to fill that read somewhere .... it tells to fill at different locations starting from lower to higher on the car... that bleed screw is one of the steps ....

[spidernut]

What do you consider "climbing up"? It is perfectly normal for the temp to increase in heavy traffic or when at a stop. At about 210, the electric fan should kick on and keep the temp below the 210 mark. If it is going above the 210 and the fan isn't kicking on, you need to check the fan switch at the bottom of the radiator.

Either way, I found the best way to purge the air out of the post 79 Spiders is to jack up the front of the car, or put in on ramps. Remove the brass bleed screw from the coolant T and back fill it using a funnel and coolant. Ensure your heater is set to the hot position.

[redcars]

Normally if you temp climes at stop lights above 210 and your fan is running I would think you have a circulation problem. This could be coolant, as in a radiator that needs to be cleaned on the inside, or air, dirty on the outside. The Spiders cool good in stock form. I can set in stop and go traffic at 105 degrees and never go over 210. I have 2 FI Spiders and have never had a problem bleeding the air form the cooling system using the method listed in the repair manual, which is to fill the system at the radiator slowly. When that is full remove the bleed plug at the tee and fill there until it is full. The best thing that you can do for yourself is to buy a factor repair manual and a couple of others for good measure. Using them with this form should get any Spider problem solved.

[joelittel]

I ended up taking the radiator out because of some suspicious looking rust colored gunk caked up around the neck and cap. After inspection it was determined that the radiator needs to be repaired or replaced, so I replaced it with a Texas Heat radiator from Vick's. I know some guys have problems with them but I have not. I do like this radiator, it's larger than the stock one but installation was easy. Since I had the cooling system apart I flushed the system until I felt confidential I had gotten all the gunk out. Used a flush detergent I got from the auto store down the street and followed the directions to the T.

Also put in a new fan switch because the old one looked like wasn't going to clean up well.

I'm happy to report my system is working better than ever, however in full disclosure I should add that it's only been on the road for a week and the air temperature has been between 35 and 60 degrees f.

[81SPIDERMATT]

that is good news .... certainly a gunked up radiator will affect cooling .... thanks for the update

[narfire]

Yeup, good news.
I was told the coolant not only aids in cooling and not freezing but also has gunk(corrosion? rust?) inhibitors. I was told by a couple of shops here that flushing and replacing with fresh coolant mix is a good thing every two-three years. I should in my Passat anyway...

[DieselSpider]

Coolant and brake fluid should both at a minimum be replaced every two years in normal service annually in severe service conditions.

White vinegar is an excelant cooling system flush and quite ecconomical. It is the flush reccomended by Engine Ice coolant.

[TX82FIAT]

This is a good reminder to flush the coolant on my cars in particular the Spider

It is funny how blurry the line can be on a Spider having an overheating issue or not. Add to this that cars made over the last 20 years rarely stray from the perfect operating temperature "on the gauge" once they are warmed up. For example you know the modern day car is running hot as you sit at a stop light and the fan cycles on and off and you pick up on the slight change in engine operation/idle. However, the temp gauge never moves. On our cars the needle looks like it moves quickly and between 188 and 205. We already know they can have overheating issues and nobody wants to blow a head gasket. Again, something that rarely happens on modern cars. So...we sit in traffic and look at the temp gauge. Even the most confident of Fiat spider owners looks at the temp gauge for that remote possibility that today, despite our best efforts, could be the day she overheats.