More cooling system questions UPDATE

[georgeramos]

I have a "T' in the heater hose t burp the system. I cannot get it not to leak at the junction of the T as it goes to the head. New hose and clamps, leaks. I recently bypassed the heater core and Im noticing that in addition to the leak these hoses are swelling up very quickly when the car is running. Seems a lot of pressure is building up in this area which MIGHT be why my heater core started leaking (leading me to bypass it)...

Is there any reason this might build up excess pressure? If there's air in the system somehow it is not allowing me to fill it. If I have the cap off the rad and fill at the T it overflows at the rad and vice versa. I am so tired of messing with this cooling system I can scream. I HATE coolant. Its all over the motor, driveway, my hands.

Thanks

[seabeelt]

Failing radiator cap. not allowing collant to expand into the overflow tank. Also if there is a leak under pressure, the leaking area will more than likely draw air back into the system as it cools. Just a thought. My "T" also leaks slightly. thought about replacing it, but might wait until the driving season is over.
r/

[focodave]

Could it be that the small heater pipe is blocked or kinked -- or -- that the passageway is blocked from corrosion, where the pipe flange bolts to the water pump?
This would be the small diameter metal heater pipe that connects to the inlet side of the water pump via a small flange:
http://www.allisonsautomotive.com/image ... _nonip.jpg

Is your t-stat installed in the proper orientation?:
http://www.international-auto.com/index ... 60&noapp=1

[wengr]

I had a blocked hose between the rad and the plastic coolant reservoir. Caused all kinds of grief until I found it.

[georgeramos]

Ok so to piece the clues together the hose between the t and the head was old and had a slow leak at the t junction. That would also explain the plume of steam i experienced and mentioned in another post. That leaky old hose would draw air into the system which would cause pressure to build up in the head and the hoses to swell.

When i drained the system down to replace the section of hose i filled it back up and had the issue of seeming full as i filled the hi spot, the tee, coolant flowed out the open radiator neck. I drove it around the block and it quickly started to overheat. I slowly released the pressure from the cap and i heard a huge rush of gurgling as the coolant flowed in the head. Then i slowly filled at the tee loosening and tightening the rad cap to allow air pockets to fill. This seems to last forver. Like 100 times about an oz at a time.

It seems to me there is something else wrong. I will check the items you mentioned. If any of these clues ring any bells please let me know. Thanks all

[narfire]

George, this is what worked for me. Been good the past 2 years even in the 90-100degF heat here recently.
I don't have the hose fitting on the heater hose so... front of the car up, I can park on my driveway and that works for me. Open the rad cap. Push all heater levers forward to let the heater circulate(made the mistake of not doing this once and car overheated next day) let the car idle and eventually the coolant will burp and fart out the rad opening as any air is expelled. When the air is out you'll notice a nice smooth flow of coolant in the rad, top up , put the cap back on and should be good to go. About 15-20 minutes tops.

[georgeramos]

I cant figure out what my issue is though. Is air in the system causing pressure hence leak or is the leak letting air in.? Chicken or egg. I am going to eliminate the $4 coolant tee and run a hose straight thru. It seems i cannot fill the system via the radiatior however as it just fills up quickly then overflows. Does this indicate a specific blockage? I am so thoroughly confused i feel i will never have a normally operating cooling system.

The thermostat is new and is installed per the IAP video posted on here. The radiator was "re cored" about 1 1/2yrs ago by a shop whos reputation i definitely question. Hoses are new. Heater pipe shows very little corrosion inside or out.

Maybe just maybe the only issue is the damned tee. I will post results after eliminating it.

[seabeelt]

Over the years I have burped both ways. When we had the 78, I parked on the incline of the drive way so that the radiator fill was the highest point of the system. As Narfire says, ran the car about 15 min to get the thermostat and system warm. coolant flowed nicely across the top, topped off, put the cap back on, waited for the car to cool and then filled the overflow as specified. On our current 71, we have the "T". it does seem to take forever to fill via this method and it took threee or 4 sessions( days) to get all of the air to settle out and rise to the top and stop burping. No issues since. As I too have a small leak here, I may eliminate the "T" and go back to my previous method.

[RRoller123]

George: Make sure you drill a small (1/8" or smaller) hole in the T-Stat plate, to allow air trapped below the T-Stat to bleed up and out.

[bradartigue]

A bad or the wrong radiator cap can cause this as well. Don't use an auto parts store cap, get a vendor supplied FIAT cap.

If you drain the radiator and remove the bottom hose, and put a garden hose in the top, it should flow out as fast as its flowing in. Then if you put on the bottom hose and take the thermostat off it should all leak out when the hose is running. With all of the hoses on and the block plug removed it should pee out of there, and with the block plug in and the T removed it should flow out of there. And it should really flow, like annoyingly too much, fill up your spark plug holes kind of flow.

[georgeramos]

Thanks Brad. Now i know what im doing saturday morning.

[bradartigue]

Thanks Brad. Now i know what im doing saturday morning.

Covering your feet in water.

[georgeramos]

I noticed today that my overflow tank was more filled than usual and the car was running very warm again last night. Can this be caused by blockage (ie silt) in the overflow tank that does not allow the coolant to flow back out? Wengr what were the symptoms of your blocked hose?

[DanD]

Sand the corrosion off the fitting and it will seal better. Get a new radiator cap. Hope your head gasket is good, because a failed head gasket will over pressurize your system and fill it with air, forcing the fluid into the over flow.

Eliminate the leaks and radiator cap as likely culprits.

[georgeramos]

The rad cap is new. Could the head gasket be failing and NOT show oil in the coolant or vice versa? Is there any other reason that coolant would travel into the overflow?