Lost studs in intake manifold

[narfire]

Looks like a nut had a bit of a ride until it was beaten small enough to spit out the exhaust... I have a head here that looks like it had "nut in combustion chamber damage"

[MadBeez]

Looks like a nut had a bit of a ride until it was beaten small enough to spit out the exhaust... I have a head here that looks like it had "nut in combustion chamber damage"

Thanks Narfire - was the head reusable/re-buildable? I can search around on the forum, but maybe you know off the top of your head - do I need a head specifically for this 1608?

-Rich

[MadBeez]

It's been slow going with work concerns getting in the way of this hobby. I've decided to remove the cylinder head to do a thorough recon but I've never done it before. I spent hours reading posts on timing belt removal and cylinder head info but couldn't find anything specific to my lack of knowledge.

So far I've removed: radiator and hoses, water pump belt, timing belt cover and the distributor (probably wasn't supposed to).

I'm stuck on how to get the idler spring loose - what tools to use and what nut to focus on.

Then, after marking the timing marks with white-out at TDC what should be next?

here are a couple of pics as to where I'm at:

Thanks, Rich.

[Kevin1]

Loosen -but don't remove- the nut at the center of the bearing.
Loosen -but don't remove- the bolt that the idler bracket pivots on. This is the bolt at about the 5:00 position next to the bearing.
Leave the bolt with the spring coils wrapped around it alone.

Now you should be able to lever the bearing over to relieve the pressure on belt. Hold it there while snugging up the nut in the center of the bearing to keep it in the slack position. The belt will now have enough room that you can slip it off.

Hope that helps.

[redcars]

Your idler bearing is toast as you can see the ball bearing balls because your seal is gone. Take that off and put it and the timing belt in the trash. Both are cheap and when they fail it can be the end of your engine at the worst. When changed on time they will not cause you any problems.

[MadBeez]

Well, I wasn't patient enough to wait for an answer so I loosened the wrong nut and levered the spring up an over. Should be fun getting it back on. Thanks though Kevin.

I'll order a new idler and I have a new belt.

I've got all the head bolts out and have it free of the block but something is holding it from coming off. I was trying to remove it all with intake and exhaust manifolds still attached as the header pipe is detached (weld is separated) right at the manifold.

Should it just lift off?

[hayesbd]

There is usually a strap on one of the exhaust manifold studs that holds the heater pipe from vibrating. Hope this helps.

Brian

[MadBeez]

"There is usually a strap on one of the exhaust manifold studs..."

Thanks, I'll check in the morning. (wife has other plans and can't get her to help)

[MadBeez]

Yup, that's it. Thanks Brian. I'll pull the head later this morning.

[MadBeez]

Awesome! Got the head off and I'm not seeing any damage at all ! Just a lot of carbon buildup.

Maybe a problem though - when I turn the crank the pistons go all the way up and down but then seem to bump up against something and stop. I didn't try to force it and tried going in the opposite direction - same thing. Is that normal?









What chemicals are best to start cleaning this thing up? I have PB Blaster, carb cleaner, mystery oil. Is a scotch pad good to use?

Thanks, Rich.

[seabeelt]

Maybe a problem though - when I turn the crank the pistons go all the way up and down but then seem to bump up against something and stop. I didn't try to force it and tried going in the opposite direction - same thing. Is that normal?

.> Make sure the auxillary pully hole is pointed at the 1:00 position as it sounds like your crank shaft is hitting the aux shaft lobe
and will break it off if you try to force it.

Why is the surface of the block so rusty looking??? Is should look more or less like this one ( also a 1600)

[MadBeez]

" Make sure the auxillary pully hole is pointed at the 1:00 position as it sounds like your crank shaft is hitting the aux shaft lobe
and will break it off if you try to force it.

Why is the surface of the block so rusty looking??? Is should look more or less like this one ( also a 1600) "

Thanks Michael, I'll check the aux pulley hole. As for the rust - no idea. That comment really busted my happy bubble though. I'm hoping that it's because it sat, wet, overnight while I tried to find the last bolt that was keeping the head from separating from the block - it was the heater pipe bracket as pointed out by Brian.

I need to leave this for a week while I travel to PA and TX - what's the best thing I can spray on it to keep it from rusting further?

Thanks, Rich.

[MadBeez]

The aux pulley was the problem. Looking at the pulley closely I found a kind of arrow stamped into the metal so I tried pointing that to about 1 o' clock and that freed it up.

Thanks again! Wish this forum (and the internet) had been around back in 88 when I was trying to keep my original Spider going.

-Rich

[Kevin1]

For the rust spray it down with wd40 , boeshield, or even just wipe it dry and coat it with regular engine oil.

[MadBeez]

Carb question. The fuel-in and out brass ports on my DHSA are loose and can be pulled right out. Are there replacements for these? I've looked on most of the Vendors List URLs but nothing yet.

Kevin - I wiped all the surfaces down with oil then covered them with plastic wrap. That should hold off the rust until I get back.

-Rich