I'm looking to buy. Can someone please answer

[kristoj]

I'm afraid I disagree. Although the 82 is fuel injected, the early ones are more classic. Why else would so many people spend so much time and money to make their later models look like the early ones? Really, you should look for the best example and not worry too much about what year it is. They all have their good points and bad (although I can't think of any bad for a 72 ). Here are a few things you need to look for when buying:

Rust. Check the outside shell for any paint bubbling. Rust starts from the inside and goes out so bubbles means rust through damage. Also get under the car and use a screwdriver to test the floor pans. Also check the shock towers and crossmember to make sure they're solid.

Door hinges. Especially in the later model cars, open the doors and check the upper and lower hinge mount points on the door itself. If they are cracked, they're a bear to have repaired.

seatback frame. Especially on later models, the driver's side seatback can become bent from people leaning over and pulling the top up while sitting in the car. The fix isn't so bad if you can use a welder.

Electrical. Make sure everything works on the car. Nothing's more of a pain than trying to trace and repair wiring that someone else has tried to repair.

Transmission. Make sure the transmission operates smoothly and doesn't jump out of gear or grind. They can get expensive to repair.

Does anyone else have more to add?

I would also look for gear whine or other issues in the rear differential , particularly on '79 and up models as they used a different design. Pinion seals on the front of the diff often leak leading to low fluid and premature failure. It is also imperative that you replace the timing belt immediately after purchasing the car unless there is documented evidence that it has been done within the last several years or 30,000 miles. The good news is that many parts for Spiders run significantly cheaper than most other cars, even with the devaluation of the dollar against the euro. Good luck!

Oh, and I almost forgot -- 1982 is the best year to own

[pope]

There is no doubt that the best year was 1980!!!!!! The only year that you could buy it as a carbed or Fuel injected model.

[mbouse]

but, not on the same car. You'd have to get two 1980's.... go with the carb'd one. better for making mods to.

[pope]

Mike, I rebuilt my car with two fronts welded together (no back end). One has a carb and the other is fuel injected. That way I can decide which one I want to drive. And I never have to back up.

[mbouse]

So, do you have a FiiF or a SpiipS or a 2002 ??

inquiring minds could care less.

[manoa matt]

Fuel injected cars don't make that deep rumbling throaty hot rod sounds that a carburator car can make. The sounds the car makes are half of the fun, especially when you drop the pedal, that second barrel opens up, and it takes off.

"A hot rod isn't a hot rod untill it sounds like one." (or sports car)

My .02 cents

Matt

[mdrburchette]

You tell 'em Matt! If you really want to sound big and mean, strap a set of IDFs on that sucker and you'll never need a radio.

[rlux4]

I feel bad for all you "other than '82" owners. I'm sure all this rationalization is caused by jealousy. Sad to say though, they only made so many '82 and so there's just not enough to go around. Thank God I got mine in time!
Ron

[Jimb]

So why hasn't this one got more offers? It seem like a descent car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fiat-spi ... enameZWDVW

Jim

[Leesfer]

So why hasn't this one got more offers? It seem like a descent car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fiat-spi ... enameZWDVW

Jim

Because it's not an auction item

Ps... Dont pay more than a few thousand for a good fiat spider, 10,000+ is overpriced

[ga.spyder]

I have to agree with Leesfer.That is an awful lot of money for that car!It looks like he is a dealer on a ''fishing'' trip ,hoping someone will make a high offer.My 82 w/ good paint,running great ,no rust ,and not many issues was 4000,and Im sure there are even better deals out there. From my own bad exp. on ebay ,I would make a trip and drive any car before buying. The pix never tell the whole story. You might be able to get a FLU member ,or forum user here to look at a car for you if its way out of your area.We all like to look at cars!!
Good Luck ,Craig

[Jimb]

No question it's expensive...and the seller is on a fishing trip.
However, I am surprised the ad didn't get more offers even if they were just in the 5-7k range.
Jim

[manoa matt]

These are a few of my favorites taken from the add:

This car is remarkable in that it does not have a "restored" feel. Rather, it appears correct and preserved---looking much the same as it did more than 25 years ago. ( Just look at the engine bay, all original hoses)

Even if a sound example was located, we doubt you could duplicate what we have in front of us for less than $20,000. This car is only minor details from being a reference example. ( you could do a complete body off, period correct, restoration for less than $20,000)

Current CTM guide places the range for similar cars between $13500-$17,800. ( Funny, all my price guides are $10,000 off.)

[Darsella1]

Alfa's are not nearly as fun! Even a few dual car owners in our club say so!

I would go to a show and look at as many examples of each year as you can. Each person seems to fall in love with a different year for different reasons. For me it will always be the later 81-85 cars.

The only year I know had the most issues is the '79 and unfortunately, they are the most common year.

[So Cal Mark]

if you want a stock car to just drive, get an 80 or newer FI model. If you want one to modify, then get a 78 or earlier car. I'd steer clear of the 80 and 79 carb models unless it's very cheap and you want to make some mods and can afford the mods.