Can't get it to turn over after overhaul

[70spider]

Hello,
I have just finished putting everything back together (new intake, carb, starter, water pump, radiator, thermostat, recondition tank, fuel filter, installed Petronix electronic ignition). Filled it with fluids crossed my fingers and tried to crank it over, it was a no go. I tried one more short time and nothing and I stopped there, didn't want to damage anyhting. I figured I need to prime the carb, so how to do this on a Weber 32/36 DFEV? Also, I was reading on how to start a new engine online and to see if you have spark it suggests you pull the plug wire off the #1 and attaching it to a plug then ground the plug to the block and try to crank it over while moving the distributor back and forth until it sparks. Has anyone done this? I check the wiring diagram and I connected everything to its appropriate place. I am going to check the fuel pump tommorrow. Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks

[131]

pull the plug wire off the #1 and attaching it to a plug then ground the plug to the block and try to crank it over while moving the distributor back and forth until it sparks.

You're checking for spark, no need to turn the distributor, it'll spark wherever it is, moving the distributor changes when it sparks.

[70spider]

I think I found out what the spark issue was, the PO had ran a wire from the fuse box directly to the coil and I removed it. I then looked over the wiring diagram the Bradley Artigue and found the blue/black wire is supose to go from the ignition switch to the coil so after looking through the engine compartment I found the wire. It had been taped off, I checked to see if it was live when the key was in the "on" position and it was so I put a connector on it and hooked it up to the coil. My other problem is I am getting no fuel to the carb, the line is completely dry. I was wondering how I go about priming the fuel system. The fuel pump worked before, because when I removed it to get the manifold off I giggled the arm and fuel sprayed out. Should I take the line off the fuel pump and syringe some fuel in it? Any help would be appriciated. I know once I get him to fire up it will run great.
Thanks

[131]

Drop a teaspoon of fuel down the carb, if the spark and timing are right it'll fire up for a second or two, pumping fuel up a lot quicker than trying to get it to pump up on the starter. Do it a couple of times if needs be.

[vandor]

> tried to crank it over, it was a no go.

It sounds like from your posts that it DOES turn over, it DOES crank, but it DOES NOT start.
Ie. when you turn the ignition switch the starter turns the engine. Thus the engine turns over.

If you have spark you can spray a little carburetor cleaner down the carburetor and it will easily run on that, it's
extremely flammable.
Then you will know that the ignition timing is close and the fuel pump will have more time to pump fuel from the tank.

[70spider]

Thanks for the help. Csaba your starter works great, it sounds alot better than the old unit. Well I am not quite sure if I have spark, I was going to try and solve the fuel issue first. I went over the wiring diagram and went by the instructions for the Petronix, so I should have all the electrical correct. I'll give it another try tomorrow with your sugestions. Thanks again

[70spider]

The mystery continues. I primed the carb and filled the fuel filter and pump with fuel then sprayed a little carb cleaner into the carb and tried to start it. It fired up briefly. Tried again fired up briefly, after few more times of this is started and ran for about 10 seconds, very rough. Then I tried again nothing it wouldn't even fire up . I may have an idea, the PO had the blue/black wire that is supose to go to the coil taped off and instead had a jump wire running from the #2 fuse to the coil, perhaps the blue/black wire is faulty? I did test it with a simple circuit tester and the light came on when the key was in the "on" position. Should I reconnect the wire the PO had and see what happens? Should I do the spark plug test to see if I have spark? Another odd thing is my brand new sending unit doesn't work now, the fuel gauge reads empty and there is 6 gallons of fuel in it The gremlins have got me by the &@$%##. Any help would be great. Fixing the car myself is my only option the mechanics around here will not work on it for me, one mechanic said "the car isn't in my book of repairs so I don't have a time to charge you so I can't do it" LOL. Others say no after they find out it is a Fiat. I guess that is what I get for living in redneck country. Well thanks for the help I'll try to figure it out.

[JEEPER]

If it started even briefly the electrical should be OK and the timing is pretty close. From what you said it is starving for fuel. Pull the coil high voltage lead, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, put the fuel line end in a can to see if your getting fuel and have someone crank the engine. Are you sure the fuel line isn't pinched somewhere. Inspect it from the tank to the engine compartment.

[wizard124]

Do you have the distributor lined up to fire #4 when the crank is at TDC and the cam wheel pointers lined up on the holes in the cam wheels?

Is the coil energized in START as well as RUN? Maybe the PO ran the new wire due to a bad ignition switch or connector.

Are the fuel lines hooked up properly to the tank? Pull the line at the carb and crank....getting fuel? Reading pressure?

[70spider]

I did the spark plug test, and I have spark. I'll check the fuel issue when I put new lines from the tank to the hard line due to the out line developed a drip after I put the refurbished tank back in. I have to wait on shipping for the hoses. So I'll give it another shot on Saturday. I set the timing with the #4 at TDC cam wheels lined up, and droped the distributor in with the rotor at the #4 terminal on the cap. The aux. (fuel pump) wheel was lined up at the correct mark as well.
How would I know if the ignition switch was bad? I checked the wire with a voltage tester and the light came on.
If I have fuel I guess I'll try to run the wire the PO did and see what happens and double check the timing first before I continue.
Thanks.

[vandor]

With points ignition if one leaves the ignition key on with the car not running, and the points happen to be closed, the wire going from the ignition switch to the coil can get overloaded and melt. It runs in a harness with many other wires, so when the insulation melts in the harness it can short to other wires or ground.
Likely this is why this wire was not used any more. I would run a new wire from the proper terminal of the ignition switch to the coil, so the wiring is as stock, but you know for sure you have a good wire that will not short to ground or other wires.

[majicwrench]

Did the OP not just say he has spark?? So why are we talking about running another wire??

[vandor]

There is a reason why the PO taped it off. I would not be surprised if it works now, but not later.
I suppose if there is no evidence at all of the wire getting hot, then my assumption is wrong.

[70spider]

If I were to run a new wire due to the original being faulty in any way (I have the same concerns Vander does, there must have been a reason they tapped the original wire off), where would I run it from? Should I find the blue/black wire at the ignigion amd replace it with the new? or run it straight from the fuse box the the PO did?
Thanks for the input everyone.

[narfire]

and droped the distributor in with the rotor at the #4 terminal on the cap.

On my 80 FI, the pin inside the cap does not line up with the terminal outside the cap.
Just wondering....