2 liter block in 1800 engine bay, possible?

[manoa matt]

I'm sure it can be done, but at what cost and what needs to be fabricated and modified?

I have a 1978 1800 mostly stock. Recently came across a 2 liter block in good condition. I'm thinking the only modification I would need is to lower the crossmember so the engine sits lower and clears the hood. I dont have the 2 liter crossmember.

I need to strengthing the frame rails where the lower "A" arm and crossmember attach. I've noticed some cracks in the frame rail. I was planning on welding a 1/4 or 1/8 steel plate on the top and bottom of the frame rail before re-attaching the crossmember. If I sandwitch the 1/4 inch steel plate between the lower surface of the frame rail and the top of the crossmember mounting I think the engine will have clearance.

My concern is that the lower "A" arm position will move down 1/4" and adversely affect the camber, tilting the wheel more inward.

I have to strengthen the rails with additional metal anyway, preferably 1/8". Even if I keep the 1800 block my camber will still be off. There a few shims on the lower "A" arm now, so if I take them out it may go back to spec.

The 2 liter engine has to be cleaned and there is no way to test compression. I'm trying to make due with what I've got and not spend much money, but I could always sell the pistons, rods, and misc engine parts and buy a bigger carb.

Some one tell me I'm crazy and its too much work for the small performance gain.

Matt

[So Cal Mark]

the motor will fit without changing the x member but a couple of mods are needed. You'll need to rotate the dist so it points down rather than up. Depending what carb/air cleaner combo you run, you may need to trim some off the inner hood panel

If you space your x member down, the side bolts won't line up anymore

[manoa matt]

Ahh ha, I forgot about those side bolts. I'm probably putting the horse before the cart. I need to strengthen the frame rails and see how much damage I got before I go powering it up and make it worse. This is something I should have done when I had the engine and trans out, Doh. Or when I had the A arms off to change the suspension bushings, Doh, Doh.

By the way, the two studs that hold the x member to the frame rail on the bottom, how are they attached? Is the stud just welded to the lower surface of the frame rail? Is there a nut welded inside the frame rail that the stud screws into?

My repair was going to be make a plate for the top and bottom of the frame rail and put two long through bolts through the entire assembily. By drilling two holes through the frame rail will that weaken it even with the extra plates?

Here is what I was thinking: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/2457974983/

Matt

[So Cal Mark]

I've seen several frames repaired that way, usually once the studs completely tore out of the frame. The studs are held captive in folded metal of the unibody.

The 2L sure makes a great street engine, especially with a few mods. Gobs of low end torque really get the car moving quickly

[manoa matt]

I was thinking of moving ahead with the conversion then realized something. With the bigger combustion chambers and added weight I'll need more gas. I now have a new set of questions.

1. With a 1800 head and 2L block will a 32 ADFA be big enough to supply?
2. Can I just rejet the carb larger and do a cold air intake to force more air in?

3. If I have to get a bigger carb for the 1800/2L setup, why not just get a bigger carb and stick it on my current 1800 setup and be done with it. Same price and alot less work right?

Matt

[So Cal Mark]

the carb will work, but a bigger carb will help the top end alot. The 2L have alot more torque than an 1800, it's worth the swap but stick with the 1.8 cyl head