OK, I thought it was a simple twist off, but I have discovered that the chrome shifter is not that easy to remove. I discovered that bushings hold it on and that pulling and other methods of "persuasion" are ineffective.
So - how do you get that bloody thing off?!
Another dumb question..
-
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 4211
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: Another dumb question..
Ah yes, the first time taking the shifter sleeve off. Brings back memories. OK, first off, you're not the only one who has a little trouble getting it apart the first time. Every one of us has gone through the same thing. Let's see if I can explain it so it makes sense.
I use two small screw drivers, others (Ventura Ace for one) use two curved picks. Like dental tools.
You need to get the bottom ring off. It will be visible as a white plastic ring at the base of the chrome. Inside the chrome sleeve this plastic ring is shaped like a crown. squeeze in on two sides of the crown tips with the tool of your choice. That will release enough of the top of the crown shaped plastic sleeve to release it and allow it to be pulled down. I push the two small screw drivers up into the chrome sleeve, pry out on the handles, this tilts the top of the screw drivers in, and then, while I'm applying inward pressure on the screw drivers, I lift on the handles. This will pry the plastic sleeve down. Once it is out of the chrome sleeve, you can lift it off of the inner shifter shaft. do this carefully as there are the other parts (rubber grommet, etc.) that will want to fall out. If these parts stay inside the chrome shaft you'll need to pry them out.
Does that make sense? Don't worry, subsequent removals are much easier.
Mike Bouse has a tutorial somewhere on this because of the "Shorter Shifter" he sells, but I can't remember where it is.
Ron
I use two small screw drivers, others (Ventura Ace for one) use two curved picks. Like dental tools.
You need to get the bottom ring off. It will be visible as a white plastic ring at the base of the chrome. Inside the chrome sleeve this plastic ring is shaped like a crown. squeeze in on two sides of the crown tips with the tool of your choice. That will release enough of the top of the crown shaped plastic sleeve to release it and allow it to be pulled down. I push the two small screw drivers up into the chrome sleeve, pry out on the handles, this tilts the top of the screw drivers in, and then, while I'm applying inward pressure on the screw drivers, I lift on the handles. This will pry the plastic sleeve down. Once it is out of the chrome sleeve, you can lift it off of the inner shifter shaft. do this carefully as there are the other parts (rubber grommet, etc.) that will want to fall out. If these parts stay inside the chrome shaft you'll need to pry them out.
Does that make sense? Don't worry, subsequent removals are much easier.
Mike Bouse has a tutorial somewhere on this because of the "Shorter Shifter" he sells, but I can't remember where it is.
Ron
Re: Another dumb question..
LOL. OK, I know when someone starts a reply this way, I am in for a real treat. I get the gist of it though, use force, but be gentle.rlux4 wrote:Ah yes, the first time taking the shifter sleeve off. Brings back memories.
Quick question though, if everything falls out, is it something to be concerned about? I would think not as everything should stay on the shaft.
Thanks for the input rlux.
"Fifi"
-
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 4211
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: Another dumb question..
No, as long as you have a good manual, it will show you the order that it goes back in. If you don't have a manual, either I or someone who has one can post a picture of it for you. The parts may stay on the inner shaft, my plastic sleeve was broken, so parts fell out.
Ron
Ron
Re: Another dumb question..
Fifi - please note that most folks i have talked to have destroyed the part that is giving you the trouble in removal. Which is not a bad thing, unless you intended to reverse the procedure and reuse that part. Secondly, i have heard from some folks who have purchased the replacement kits for the stock shifter....have said that the replacement parts do not give a factory fit. my advice to you is to be dang sure you wanna remove that stock shifter before you attempt its removal.
that being said, here is a link to my instruction set for the installation of my Michigan SHORTER SHIFTER. It includes my rendition on how to remove the stock shifter as mentioned by Ron http://webpages.charter.net/mbouse/Mich ... ctions.pdf
additionally, here is a pictogram of what you should be attempting to remove
that being said, here is a link to my instruction set for the installation of my Michigan SHORTER SHIFTER. It includes my rendition on how to remove the stock shifter as mentioned by Ron http://webpages.charter.net/mbouse/Mich ... ctions.pdf
additionally, here is a pictogram of what you should be attempting to remove
Re: Another dumb question..
Well, I managed to get the "crown" piece off relatively easy with the guidance given and I'm happy to say the shifter came off with no fan fare. I needed to get it off to replace the rubber shifter boot, which is done. I have now discovered that getting the "crown" piece back in is tougher than getting it out. We (the part and I) had a big argument this morning with the part winning for now, but I intend to be victorious!! With care of course.
Re: Another dumb question..
a small amount of lubrication may help that plastic part slide in better. once in, it should snap in place. i am glad to know that you were able to reuse it.
Re: Another dumb question..
To reinstall, load all the rubber and plastic parts inside the shift lever extension in the proper order, including the plastic 'crown' piece that goes on the bottom. It should wiggle into the bottom without too much effort. Then, take the whole assembly and slide it over the gear shift lever. When it bottoms out, you'll need to give it a sharp blow to snap it into place. You shouldn't need any lubrication for installing these items. I would avoid using lubrication, since that will make it more likely for the parts to remain 'loose' when completely installed.
If you are trying to build up the parts on the shift lever, and slide the extention over the top, it is very difficult ,if it is even possible, to get that lower crown piece to snap into place. Don't try this approach.
Alvon
If you are trying to build up the parts on the shift lever, and slide the extention over the top, it is very difficult ,if it is even possible, to get that lower crown piece to snap into place. Don't try this approach.
Alvon
Re: Another dumb question..
To everyone that dealt with this issue, use the technique described by ventura ace. It was probable the easiest thing I have done on "Fifi" to date.ventura ace wrote:To reinstall, load all the rubber and plastic parts inside the shift lever extension in the proper order, including the plastic 'crown' piece that goes on the bottom. It should wiggle into the bottom without too much effort. Then, take the whole assembly and slide it over the gear shift lever. When it bottoms out, you'll need to give it a sharp blow to snap it into place. You shouldn't need any lubrication for installing these items. I would avoid using lubrication, since that will make it more likely for the parts to remain 'loose' when completely installed.
If you are trying to build up the parts on the shift lever, and slide the extention over the top, it is very difficult ,if it is even possible, to get that lower crown piece to snap into place. Don't try this approach.
Alvon
Thanks so much ace, bad part is, you may be my go to guy from here on out!
-
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 4211
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: Another dumb question..
Ace, "sharp blow"? I thought it was supposed to be a bonk!
Ron
Ron
Re: Another dumb question..
Ron, it goes like this, from least to most, and calibration of the wrist is very critical:
Flick
Tap
Rap
Dull Blow
Smack
Bonk
Sharp Blow
Heavy Blow
Slam
Pile Driver
As a point of comparison, a Bonk is what I should have done to your noggin after you sabatoged your car before you gave it to me to drive home! :>)
Yeh, anywhere from a Smack to a Sharp Blow should do for the shifter extension. Averages out to a Bonk, I reckon.
Glad it worked for you, Fifi. Mike Bouse's product really is a nice product, for a good solid feel to the shift lever, and makes service a bit easier. I just happen to like the rubber isolation offered by the original design, myself.
Alvon
Flick
Tap
Rap
Dull Blow
Smack
Bonk
Sharp Blow
Heavy Blow
Slam
Pile Driver
As a point of comparison, a Bonk is what I should have done to your noggin after you sabatoged your car before you gave it to me to drive home! :>)
Yeh, anywhere from a Smack to a Sharp Blow should do for the shifter extension. Averages out to a Bonk, I reckon.
Glad it worked for you, Fifi. Mike Bouse's product really is a nice product, for a good solid feel to the shift lever, and makes service a bit easier. I just happen to like the rubber isolation offered by the original design, myself.
Alvon
-
- Patron 2022
- Posts: 4211
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: Another dumb question..
Better than a sharp blow to the noggin I guess!
That's too funny, and I'm glad you cleared up the age old wrist calibration question.
Ron
That's too funny, and I'm glad you cleared up the age old wrist calibration question.
Ron