toplessexpat wrote: It was verbose brad... but we've learned you're a fiddler!
Thankfully I'm better with fiddling on carburetors than fiddling on fiddles. I'm a horrible musician.
toplessexpat wrote: It was verbose brad... but we've learned you're a fiddler!
I'd have to say your flooding the engine . But what would I knowMrJD wrote:So lets get this really simple:
If I run a synchronous 38mm carb on a relatively stock engine, it will have potential flat spots and issues with acceleration if you just "floor" it off the line.
What causes this to be the case?
MrJD wrote:So lets get this really simple:
If I run a synchronous 38mm carb on a relatively stock engine, it will have potential flat spots and issues with acceleration if you just "floor" it off the line.
What causes this to be the case?
Depends on the carb; really cheap Webers - 30DIC for example - don't have bushings or bearings, the shafts are press-fit into the aluminum. When they wear out, the carb is junk. Webers that have been used in harsh conditions (i.e. dune buggies and IDFs) often are untunable because the throttle plates don't sit correctly and the barrels are worn from inhalation of crap and poor air filters. Webers that have been "rebuilt" by mechanics or owners often were overtorqued/scratched up to the point they can't be calibrated.MrJD wrote:Just an aside... If you have a carb that has been sitting for eternity, no cracks in the aluminum... its there just dusty and covered in oil.
The question is, can basically any carb be re-built or is there some event where the carb has to be thrown out?